9 Final steps on the hull (42)

Created on: 14 Aug 2016
This album shows the final stages of getting the hull ready for turning over.
  • 27 July - after trimming all the plywood, I planed and sanded the chines, and then coated them with neat epoxy, so that when I come to glass, the end grain won't soak up all the epoxy.
  • 1 August - I tried to get the chine as fair as possible, although once the boat is afloat, I doubt anyone will even notice.
  • 8 August - all the chines now have glass tape along them, which means that they will end up with two layers of glass.
  • 13 August - the first piece of glass goes on the bow.
  • Sometimes, I wish the glass weren't transparent. Here you can easily see where I had to remove plywood and re-plank.
  • 14 August - progress report. The bottom has been glassed and that on the bow is just visible.
  • 17 Aug. In my time I must have laid glass over several acres of plywood, so it was not a daunting task! Here I am about half way along the starboard bilge panel.
  • Another piece wetted out.
  • 18 Aug. My method was to smooth the cut cloth over the plywood and then climb onto the bottom of the boat and tip epoxy along the top of the glass. I used a plastic spreader to get an even coating.
  • 24 Aug. Glassing the topsides was more tricky and I used a roller to wet out the cloth, following up with the plastic spreader. Rollers are a pain because they soak up epoxy, which quickly sets.
  • 30 Aug. All the glass received an additional two coats of resin. I would coat the previous day's work before putting new glass on. I gave up on rollers and got as fast and a better job with a brush.
  • Glassing the transoms. I'm leaving the lute, for the moment. It will be easier to do when the boat is the right way up.
  • Having gone to all the trouble of carefully coating the glassed hull, I now have to flatten it all off to prepare for Coppercoat on the bottom and undercoat on the sides.
  • 4 Sep Progress photo. The sanding is coming on. I could put gloss paint directly on the topsides, but the sun shines on the forward end of the boat, so I will put on undercoat to protect the epoxy.
  • 5 Sep. Marcus helped me mark the shape for the deadwood. He's much better at standing on a slippery slope than I am!
  • If the hull is going to sit nicely on the keel, then I have to be sure that the deadwood is truly horizontal.
  • 6 Sep. It took two of us to mark the bottom of the boat: I stood on a ladder and checked the square was vertical while Marcus made a mark.
  • We used the 'nose' pattern made for the keel, to make to where the deadwood will extend.
  • 7 Sep. I bought a load of soligna (Queensland blue gum) for the deadwood. It all had to be thicknessed and is rock hard. The planer decided it didn't like it and is presently in for repair.
  • 10 Sep. I'd spent two days on the thicknesser before it died. I took the wood to the yard workshop to finish the thicknessing, and they did the job in half an hour! Laying it on the pattern.
  • After cutting the bevel on the bandsaw, I used the pattern to mark the shape of the various pieces.
  • 11 Sep. I've been lent a big bandsaw by Karl - thanks, Karl. Heaven knows how I'd have sawn up the wood without it.
  • The pieces were getting pretty long as the keel built up. Because the soligna is so heavy and hard to handle - and tends to be a bit warped, too, I made the later layers from shorter lengths.
  • 12 Sep. Building up the deadwood. Marking, shaping, cutting and then fitting the wood so that everything is true is a slow business.
  • 15 Sep. Final shaping takes place on the boat, after each piece is glued in place. No doubt there will be a big fairing job when it's completed.
  • 16 Sep. The big bandsaw copes well with the soligna, but both planer and saw lose their edge quickly on this timber. It was still a good buy, but maybe not quite as cheap as it seemed at the time!
  • 18 Sep. Progress report.
  • The deadwood is taking ages because the saligna is so hard. While this is a big cut on any piece of wood, by the time the bandsaw has cut half a dozen pieces like this, the blade needs changing!
  • 22 Sep - the wood rasp is a favoured tool for the amateur woodworker. It enables accurate reshaping with a minimum skill level.
  • Slowly but steadily the stack is building up.
  • The thicknesser that I had been using has been pronounced beyond economic repair, so a new one had to be purchased. Second hand ones are rare and expensive.I hope to sell it at the end of the project
  • 25 Sep. Progress report: 'just' one more layer to put on the deadwood.
  • 27/9 - adding more layers to the deadwood - full length, now
  • The glued wood is ready for the final smoothing and shaping.
  • 28/9 - Marcus uses his pattern once again, to shape the forward end of the deadwood.
  • 29/9 - the final shape.
  • Deadwood ready for glassing.
  • 29 Sep - the final stack of deadwood, aft.
  • 30 Sep - the front of the keel, glassed and ready for trimming.
  • 1 Oct - drilling the longest keel bolt, right aft. The bolts are 16mm threaded rod set into the keel. The holes are 25mm and they are oversize so that they can be filled with epoxy.
  • The hole for the keelbolt through the floor.
  • The final job was to fill in all the screw holes left over from gluing up the laminates.
       " ...there is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing as simply messing about in junk-rigged boats" 
                                                               - the Chinese Water Rat

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