11 SibLim - the fitout (1) (50)

Created on: 20 Oct 2016
There will undoubtedly be heaps of photos about the fitout, but instead of breaking it down into individual components, I shall just fill albums up as I go along and number them 1, 2, 3, etc.
  • 11 Oct - one of the first jobs I did was roughly to cut out the excess bow. There will be two bow rollers - one for anchoring and one, generally, for mooring - well apart from each other.
  • Looking towards the saloon while sitting on the stern.
  • A view down the centreline.
  • 12 Oct - where the bow met the bottom of the boat was very messy, as a result of the difficulties of bending the plywood, etc. I flooded where everything met with epoxy and fillers and sanded it all.
  • 14 Oct - to make it easier to keep the boat clean, I'm filleting all the top surfaces of stringers. I'm also fairing the scarphs and filleting the plywood floors.
  • Forward of the bulkhead and under the anchor locker will be sealed off. I filled chips, and screw holes, filletted and put 3 more coats of resin on everything. I worked from the port after section.
  • 1 Nov: Bird's-eye view of the after part of the hull showing bilgeboard cases, saloon/galley and cockpit. I am where the outboard motor will be fitted.
  • Since turning the boat over, I've been busy filleting and coating all the places that were hard to get to when it was the right way up.
  • I've had problems with sparrows making a mess on the boat. I sourced some sticky stuff to put where they perch, which they hate. Marcus went up the ladder to spread it about - and take these photos.
  • Leaning on the bridge deck.
  • Standing in the sleeping cabin.
  • 3 Nov. After due consideration, I decided to fair the keel, not so much for smooth water flow as to prevent there being any crevices for barnacles and the like to get a 'toe hold'.
  • 5 Nov.I intend to put Coppercoat over the entire bilge panel up to the chine. However, as the chine runs out at the bow, I epoxied some string in place to mark the 'waterline'. (in fact well above it)
  • 10 Nov. I've bought two splendid bow rollers. Because of the shape of the Manson anchor, and the junk bow, they will need to be fitted on their own little 'bowsprits'.
  • With my saligna came some unidentified (and very attractive) gum. Lighter than the saligna it's perfect for this job.
  • 12 Nov. My unidentified gum was originally decking. Thicknessed to 15mm and with the tongues and grooves trimmed off it will glue to a substantial support for the bow rollers.
  • !3 Nov. Progress report. Those with good eyes will be able to see that the bow transom has been trimmed down.
  • 16 Nov. Preparing the bow for the foredeck. Two lengths of hardwood will go from the bulkhead to the bow to carry the anchor rollers. Framing has been put along the plywood running fore and aft.
  • 17 Nov The bulwarks will interfere with a fair lead to deck cleats, so I am fitting posts instead, as with traditional junks. The bow roller timbers are behind the pilularis I sawed up for them
  • 18 Nov. Getting to be a real pro boatbuilder: using an angle grinder to shape the end of the Samson post. Well, as they are quite dainty, maybe Delilah post would be a better name!
  • 19 Nov. The first Delilah post being shaped and the blank for the second one behind it.
  • After fitting the port post, I put a wedge-shaped piece between it and the bulwark. Not only does it make the post stronger, but the post now acts as a knee for the bulwark.
  • 24 Nov. I'd been procrastinating on applying the Coppercoat as I'd been told it was heavy work, but once done I can prop up the hull and remove the frame aft.All 5 coats have to be applied in one day.
  • The keel and bottom panel, which includes the bow, worked out at around 4 sq m - I litre, so I divided the Coppercoat into five equal portions as in the previous photo. The first coat was very patchy.
  • I decided to take the copper right up the bow to bow roller level. I think it looks great. Maybe I'll burnish it to a high gloss :-P
  • 25 Nov The following morning, the overall effect was satisfactory, although the finish is a bit patchy due to the uneven spread of copper on each roller stroke.
  • But you can no longer see where the wood joins the steel.
  • The next step was the starboard bilge panel: 2l. I thought I'd easily knock it over in a day, but it took until 2130! The first coat,again, didn't cover so well.
  • 27 Nov But the final result looks a lot better and the patchwork of plywood at the bow is thankfully, finally covered up.
  • Those with a critical eye will notice a 'hard point' abaft the bilgeboard case. The good news is that it won't often be seen. I took the Coppercoat up about 30cm into the cases.
  • 27 Nov progress report. Still doesn't look much different, does it?!
  • The 'bowsprits', it has to be said, do look a little strange from underneath. I hope they'll look better with the bow rollers fitted.
  • I added extra framing along the centreline and worked out what had to be done before I could actually put plywood on the foredeck.
  • 30 Nov Another 12-hour day saw the Coppercoat finished. It's a bit patchy, but if the burnishing doesn't improve it, it won't be noticed once it's turned green.
  • Making a pattern for the foredeck plywood. It will be in two pieces, joining at the bulkhead.
  • 1 Dec Working late in the day, gluing in the Delilah posts.
  • 2 Dec Delilah post in place. I was rather pleased at how squarely I'd drilled for the stainless steel rod.
  • Both posts glued into place. A couple of nice, big screws back up the glue.
  • I put fillets around the posts.
  • 3 Dec I want to make a 'cast' of epoxy before gluing down the foredeck plywood, because there will be no way of checking the glue job after the event. First the 'bowsprits' need fitting.
  • Firstly, I lined out the space to catch drips. I know, I know - nobody's going to see ...
  • All set up for gluing. You can see where I 'cast' epoxy right at the bow to ensure a good joint.
  • The 'bowsprits' glued into place. Excess glue was used to fill the holes from gluing the two pieces together.
  • 4 December progress photo. Look carefully and you can see the Delilah posts.
  • Unsure that all the framing was perfectly level, I covered the back of the plywood with tape, put down a good layer of epoxy thickened with hi-density filler and made a plinth for the deck to land on.
  • I bought a couple of bronze fittings from my friend, Gary, for the foredeck and am making a pilularis bar between them. It will be my mooring cleat. Yes, it's big, but then, generally, so is the rope!
  • 5 Dec Ready to glue on the foredeck.
  • The foredeck down, with the space below a void. Some day I will probably cut out an inspection hatch in the bulkhead to check there is no moisture ingress.
  • 9 Dec. The base of the anchor locker has to land on the 'spine' and the sheer clamp. The former was too low, so I'm making a U-shape to go on top, making it higher and thicker.
  • The framing along the after bulkhead was also too low, so I added some more cedar to raise it to the correct height.
       " ...there is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing as simply messing about in junk-rigged boats" 
                                                               - the Chinese Water Rat

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