Freedom 40 Cat Ketch Junk Rig Conversion

<< First  < Prev   1   2   3   4   5   ...   Next >  Last >> 
  • 22 Dec 2017 17:40
    Reply # 5646309 on 5644384
    Annie Hill wrote:Erik - I'm not sure I understand what the problem is with having your halliard block at the top of the mast.  Surely it's only like sailing with a permanently reefed sail?


    Reefer it is.  Thanks :)
  • 22 Dec 2017 02:43
    Reply # 5645754 on 5643544
    David Tyler wrote:

    Erik,

    Please could you say what percentage area of cloth you used, over and above the designed area of the sail? That is, designed area + % extra for pockets, tablings etc + 10% wastage = ? This may help others to work out how much cloth to buy.


    David - I did weight, because it was quick and dirty.  But I think everyone's sailcloth needs will differ even if they follow a standardized method such as Arne's because all sails will fit differently into the available cloth.  And then people opt for different seam allowances, pocket designs, tabbing, and boom and yard sleeves, etc, etc...  

     I know the projected area of the sail, which is obviously different from the actual area since this is a cambered sail.   Flat was 37.8 sq. meters.  Actual sail area - shelves and chamber - is approx 43.8 sq meters (if I clicked on all the right surfaces in SketchUp).  So that part was easy.  What I have not quantified is...   

    • seam allowance of 20 mm.   
    • flat batten pockets. For 20 mm diameter battens I allowed 70 mm of a flat backing and 140 mm to cover the batten circumferentially.
    • 200 mm tabbing along the leech.
    • 100 mm wide luff and leech tape (folded in half).
    •  200 mm wide vertical wear patches along the mast for panels 1 and 2.  
    • Double thickness in the yard pocket along the top.  Because I had my design printed on the cloth I was requested to leave a 25 mm margin along the edge
    • And whatever else I am forgetting :)
    A quote by a very valuable contributor to this site...

    "I suppose the general point I'm making is this: make no assumptions, make no guesses. Draw out all the components of the sail you're going to need, and lay them out onto a drawing of the cloth, and add everything up.
  • 21 Dec 2017 19:04
    Reply # 5645344 on 1424184
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Erik,

    The photo below (on Ingeborg) shows how I make an anchor-hold for the batten parrels and Hong Kong parrels (if used). That little piece of yellow line with two loops tied on it is held securely in place with a hose-clamp. Some insulating tape is wrapped between the clamp and the batten. I chose this method on Johanna in 2002, to avoid having to drill any holes in the battens. I have stuck to this method on later rigs. An added bonus is that I can easily move the clamp to a better position during initial trial sails, if needed.

    The only drawback is that I cannot pull out the batten without removing the clamp first. If another sail is to be made, I think I will make the fore batten pockets wider to take some padding material between it and the batten. Then there will also be room for inserting or removing a batten with the hose-clamp in place.

    However, on my first boat, Malena, I tried with just wrapping the batten with several rounds of a wide masking tape and used this as a last defence against having the rolling hitches slip. I wonder if this metal-free method actually is the neatest one...

    One more thing:
    I notice that you are quite hung up in getting everything exactly right. Frankly, rigging a JR is very far from rocket science. The tape, ropes and webbing used, don’t have to be exactly of this or that material. You were on board my Frøken Sørensen, and I can imagine you must have raised an (invisible) eyebrow to some of my lashings and loose ends. However, from an operational point of view, FS’s rig was perfectly good. Therefore, don’t be afraid of using what ropes or webbing is available, or bits of second-hand rope.

    Good luck!

    Arne

       


    Last modified: 21 Dec 2017 19:05 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 21 Dec 2017 15:45
    Reply # 5645126 on 5643995
    Leeway came as a staysail schooner with a combination of rope and webbing that lashed the sails to the mast.  Under the right conditions, either could grab the mast and make raising the sail a bear.  When I saw Paul Fay's idea of using tubing around the parrel lines it was a bit of a Eureka moment.  

    I've used the Clamptite tool a fair bit, here are my thoughts.  As you tighten the wire the point loading can get very high.  Depending on the material, the wire can start to cut through whatever you are tightening it on.  So, you have to be a bit careful about tensioning the clamptite and it would be preferable to use a webbing material like Spectra/Dyneema that is really cut resistant.  After cutting off the excess wire you are left with two very sharp ends.  They can be bent under, but sometimes manage to find their way out again.  I would worry about the sharp ends playing havoc as they run against the sail cloth.  Finally, you'll need to be sure to keep the stainless wire insulated from the aluminum batten.  

    The sails look great Erik and I've enjoyed watching your process.

    Darren - thanks for the insights regarding the Clamptite - I am hoping to be able to bury the pokey ends well enough to not have an issue.  I was going to use black pvc pipe tape to insulate the wire from the tube. It's quite thick and sticky. 
  • 21 Dec 2017 15:19
    Reply # 5645111 on 5643616
    Jami Jokinen wrote:

    What and where from are the neat-looking batten caps, please?

    I made them as part of  learning how to use a lathe.  They were cut out of 25mm thick plastic sheet called Starboard - which is UV stable and similar to delrin.  For 50 mm diameter tubes  I drilled a  28 mm center hole with a spade bit, then turned the square pieces round on the lathe.  The shoulder of center hole was radiused using a roundover bit on a router table.  The pin is a 8 mm stainless tube. I plan on using rivets to hold them in the battens.  I had planned on using a router for all of the shaping, but the lathe was a new skill.  Once in production mode it takes about 10 to 15  minutes each, but I made 14 so it still took some time.
  • 20 Dec 2017 20:07
    Reply # 5644384 on 1424184
    Erik - I'm not sure I understand what the problem is with having your halliard block at the top of the mast.  Surely it's only like sailing with a permanently reefed sail?

    Your YHP is adjusted every time the sail is raised or reefed, so keeps the yard topped up.

    I like a mast lift, myself - putting a metre of soft garden hose on it vastly reduces chafe.  It's handy to grab hold of if you're climbing up the mast or via the battens, too.

    Polyester webbing seems best for batten parrels, but the cheap stuff can fall apart in the sun.  If rope is working for you, Phil, stick with it!  I sailed for years and years with rope batten parrels.

  • 20 Dec 2017 16:28
    Reply # 5643995 on 5643030
    Erik and Evi Menzel Ivey wrote:

    • The plan is to use webbing for batten parallels, fixed onto the batten ends caps with a small spectra loop and aft of the mast again with some lashing.  Not sure how I will fasten the parallel to the batten but likely some complicated and ridiculous way using my ClampTite tool since this is what I bought it for.   Fotos to follow.  


    Leeway came as a staysail schooner with a combination of rope and webbing that lashed the sails to the mast.  Under the right conditions, either could grab the mast and make raising the sail a bear.  When I saw Paul Fay's idea of using tubing around the parrel lines it was a bit of a Eureka moment.  

    I've used the Clamptite tool a fair bit, here are my thoughts.  As you tighten the wire the point loading can get very high.  Depending on the material, the wire can start to cut through whatever you are tightening it on.  So, you have to be a bit careful about tensioning the clamptite and it would be preferable to use a webbing material like Spectra/Dyneema that is really cut resistant.  After cutting off the excess wire you are left with two very sharp ends.  They can be bent under, but sometimes manage to find their way out again.  I would worry about the sharp ends playing havoc as they run against the sail cloth.  Finally, you'll need to be sure to keep the stainless wire insulated from the aluminum batten.  

    The sails look great Erik and I've enjoyed watching your process.

  • 20 Dec 2017 15:39
    Reply # 5643915 on 5643870
    David Tyler wrote:
    Phil Brown wrote:

    The mast lift is very a very simple, useful line. Not sure why you would want to go without it, You would then need to add a batten parrell on the boom, along with that lazy jack line going forward of the mast? 

    I don't use a separate mast lift; this is a case where simpler is not necessarily better. I use two lines, port and starboard, which are attached to the topping lifts halfway up. Bear in mind, Phil, that Erik is making sails along the lines of Weaverbird's, and the requirements are slightly different from other sail types. The yard is short and the AR is high, and this means that the topping lifts really need to be hauled forward rather than go straight to the masthead, to make it less likely that the peak of the yard will get the wrong side of them. In fact, maybe it wouldn't hurt to adopt this plan on other sails, for that reason. 

    The way that a single mast lift squeezes the sail against the mast when sailing reefed is a cause of chafe on long rough passages. For larger offshore rigs, I  have found it better to adopt the separate mast lift(s) and batten parrel here, though the single mast lift with a bowline around the mast remains perfectly adequate for smaller inshore boats.


    David,

    Thank you for the explanation!


  • 20 Dec 2017 15:17
    Reply # 5643870 on 5643800
    Phil Brown wrote:

    The mast lift is very a very simple, useful line. Not sure why you would want to go without it, You would then need to add a batten parrell on the boom, along with that lazy jack line going forward of the mast? 

    I don't use a separate mast lift; this is a case where simpler is not necessarily better. I use two lines, port and starboard, which are attached to the topping lifts halfway up. Bear in mind, Phil, that Erik is making sails along the lines of Weaverbird's, and the requirements are slightly different from other sail types. The yard is short and the AR is high, and this means that the topping lifts really need to be hauled forward rather than go straight to the masthead, to make it less likely that the peak of the yard will get the wrong side of them. In fact, maybe it wouldn't hurt to adopt this plan on other sails, for that reason. 

    The way that a single mast lift squeezes the sail against the mast when sailing reefed is a cause of chafe on long rough passages. For larger offshore rigs, I  have found it better to adopt the separate mast lift(s) and batten parrel here, though the single mast lift with a bowline around the mast remains perfectly adequate for smaller inshore boats.

  • 20 Dec 2017 14:59
    Reply # 5643800 on 1424184

    I've been thinking that nylon webbing has a lot of stretch for batten parrells and have seen polyester with very low % of stretch.  I started with sta-set rope I had on hand planning to change to polyester webbing but my sail is not large and inertia can be. 

    The mast lift is a very simple, useful line. Not sure why you would want to go without it, You would then need to add a batten parrell on the boom, along with that lazy jack line going forward of the mast? 

    Last modified: 20 Dec 2017 15:32 | Anonymous member
<< First  < Prev   1   2   3   4   5   ...   Next >  Last >> 
       " ...there is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing as simply messing about in junk-rigged boats" 
                                                               - the Chinese Water Rat

                                                              Site contents © the Junk Rig Association and/or individual authors

Powered by Wild Apricot Membership Software