Weaverbird - the refit

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  • 27 May 2017 21:40
    Reply # 4855926 on 3994048

    Yes, something to hold the mast down is desirable, and you can maybe improvise with the materials to hand. An L bracket screwed to the mast and step; or two eyeplates fastened to mast and step, connected by a fork/fork 5/16" rigging screw; or something of the kind.

  • 27 May 2017 14:26
    Reply # 4855521 on 3994048

    One more question on the mast step:  do you use any additional hardware to hold the mast in /down in the event of a knockdown.  What keeps this thing deep into the step until you really want to remove it? 

  • 27 May 2017 03:39
    Reply # 4855024 on 3994048

    Got it. Thank you. 

  • 26 May 2017 21:27
    Reply # 4854647 on 3994048

    1) I used a 5/8" hole and channel, and a 3/16" gap around the tenon. The polyurethane is very fluid when first mixed, so these sizes were more than enough. Make a dam of modelling clay around the pour hole and the mast, so that the cavity can be slightly over-filled.

    In Canada, I used Smooth-on brand, their TASK series, but I can't remember which grade.

    2) I made a cable exit hole just above the heel plug, and this would also act as a drain.

  • 26 May 2017 18:09
    Reply # 4854444 on 4606284
    David Tyler wrote:

    I'd better say, in case it's not obvious, that the mast has a wooden plug in the bottom, extending in the form of a tapered tenon (large enough to carry the horizontal loads). The plug is bonded in with Sikaflex. It doesn't matter what shape it is, so long as it is not round - that will stop the mast from turning. It is well waxed before the mast is stepped. The fit within the mortise is slack, and casting polyurethane is poured down the hole, to flow through a channel left in the lower level of plywood and rise up around the tenon and the very bottom of the mast tube.

    1) David, how large a pour hole, channel, and clearance around the mast and tennon the do you suggest for pouring the polyurethane?  I've never worked with that stuff.  Any recommendations on sources or brands?  

    2) Using this technique, how do you let any water that finds its way inside the mast out?

    Last modified: 26 May 2017 18:10 | Anonymous member
  • 09 May 2017 15:59
    Reply # 4822134 on 4297646
    Arne Kverneland wrote:
    David Tyler wrote:


    I've also very reluctantly come to the decision that the Suzuki 2.5HP is just too small. At least, for the big strong tides around here, where it's often necessary to work to a timetable, getting in and out of harbour at high water. I've bitten the bullet and bought a Tohatsu 6HP Sailpro with high thrust prop already fitted. I got it aboard and installed today, and started it up at high water. It's neaps, so Weaverbird didn't quite float and I couldn't go for a test drive, but everything seemed to be functioning very well, and I think I've made the right decision.


    PS: I very recently added a simple block device to let me get a more effective pull while standing in the cockpit. A quick half-meter pull on my (blue plywood) handle gives a super-quick one-meter pull on the start chord handle. My conclusion is that the engine makers must have changed the gearing of the recoil starter, to make it lighter.

    PS: I have made a new topic on outboard engines, here.

    Having twice skinned my knuckles on the companionway frame, the pull is so long, I've set up this 1:2 purchase, and now it's much better for starting. With the long pull, I was finding it difficult to spin the motor fast enough. Now I can get a more reliable start.
  • 25 Mar 2017 16:50
    Reply # 4689842 on 4686022
    Jonathan Snodgrass wrote:


    Do you want to 'borrow' my elderly Primus (again!). 



    Many thanks for the kind offer.  I hope to find an alcohol based cooker but failing that I'll probably bite the bullet and buy a Taylors 028 cooker.


  • 24 Mar 2017 14:57
    Reply # 4687553 on 4686067
    David Tyler wrote:

     I've made a single burner cooker using a Maxie meths burner as I found this to be an excellent piece of kit in operation and efficiency - but not, as both Annie and I have found, quite so good for longevity. However, I did get several years use from a burner, with no maintenance required at all. 

    David, what parts of the Maxie wear out (burn out)?
  • 24 Mar 2017 14:55
    Reply # 4687548 on 3994048

    I did some head to head comparisons of the Origo and the Maxie.  The Maxie is indeed more efficient (amount of fuel required to boil water) and faster at bringing 1L of water to boil (takes about 90% of the time the Origo does).  Also, I think the Origo doesn't have an ideal flame pattern, the handles on my pots get very hot on the Origo, while they stay cool on the Maxie.  I find the Origo workable and the Maxie one step closer to a propane stove.  Although the Origo wins hands down for safety.

    I think one of the things that can get overlooked is fuel quality.  This probably varies a lot over the world.  Here it Canada, it is tougher to get denatured ethanol and folks often use wood alcohol (methanol) instead.  Methanol has a lower heat content and this turns a workable stove into one that is not.  Even ethanol can vary in terms of the water content or the percentage of other materials used to denature it, which can effect the heat you get out of it.  

  • 23 Mar 2017 21:30
    Reply # 4686072 on 3994048
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    I also recommend this thread for those interested in cookers.

    BTW, today I was out in Ingeborg with a mate and we opened a can of soup and heated it on the Origo 3000. After having brought it to boil with the burner at full steam (yellow, inefficient flame), I turned the burner down to lowest setting. This was still enough to keep the soup simmering, and now the flame was nice and blue, which I conclude must be quite efficient (oxygen-rich = full combustion). Can that be so bad? I admit I haven't tried to fry a steak on it  -  is the problem that you don't get enough heat out of it?


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