Arne wrote:

Scott,

[...]

• If the batten parrels are slack, the sail will ride at a bit distance from the mast on sb. tack. Then the sail will act as if it has been sheeted harder in, sort of.

[...]

Arne,

Thank you for the suggestions. At the moment the sail acts as if it is sheeted in harder when sailing on a port tack. If the slack parrels can cause the opposite effect then it seems like I have the sheet attached way too far to the port side. I may make some sort of adjustable anchor point this winter so I can fuss with it out on the water next year. For now it is not so bad to mess with the sheet after tacking. It is certainly a lot less trouble than handling a large head sail on a Bermudian rig.

David wrote:

[...]

Just a thought about your difference in tack.

I notice the sheeting point on the transom is more to one side.

Is it a bit too far to one side, I wonder.

If you don't adjust your sheet slightly after you tack from starboard to port, I think the sail will be hauled in tighter on port, resulting in more weather helm on port.

[...]

Hi David,

After correcting the more significant problem by adding HK parrels it is clear that the double block for the sheet should be closer to the center of the boat. When starting on a new tack I have to adjust the sheet to make up for this difference.

I think I will re-work the entire sheeting setup. In addition to getting it positioned properly, I would like to have the sheet block up on a rail and add some sort of hoop to prevent the sheets from grabbing me and/or the tiller!

Arne wrote:

Scott,
after all the hard work you have done to get that rig working, I think both you and the sail deserve to finish the job:

To get rid of all those diagonal creases, I suggest you fit Hong Kong parrels and a running throat parrel.

In addition, to stop that lowest leech from fluttering, an elastic tack line, tied to the boom so it looks like a kicking strap, should be fitted. When the sail is fully up, the TL should have some stretch in it.

Good luck  -  remember that a sail has only been finished when it has been correctly rigged.

Arne

PS: Here is how it should look. The HK parrels do most of the job, but by pulling a bit on the THP, the load on the HKPs is much reduced. No bend in the battens.

PPS:
The diagonal creases in your sail are not just cosmetic. They remove a good deal of camber, so I think you lose some drive and suffer added drag instead.
Going upwind and tacking is all about improving the lift to drag ratio.

You were, of course, absolutely correct Arne. I got it in my head that the creases were just cosmetic. I added HK parrels. The difference in performance is like night and day. I was having too much fun sailing to stop and get a photo, but my sail sets much like the one in your latest reply. I have not missed a tack with the HK parrels rigged.

It seems I needed to learn the importance of HK parrels on my own. Thank you for explaining to me personally why they are necessary. It is clearly described in your book and write-ups. I should have just done what you said to do! You have been such a great help.

I am very happy with the sail I made following your design. I will be sure to get a photo, next time, showing the beautiful camber that develops with the HK parrels rigged.

I am having a little more trouble with the standing tack line. If it is taught enough to pull the boom down when sailing on the wind then it is too short to let the boom swing all the way out when running directly down wind.

I am also attempting to build a tiller brake following your write up.

Scott,
after all the hard work you have done to get that rig working, I think both you and the sail deserve to finish the job:

To get rid of all those diagonal creases, I suggest you fit Hong Kong parrels and a running throat parrel.

In addition, to stop that lowest leech from fluttering, an elastic tack line, tied to the boom so it looks like a kicking strap, should be fitted. When the sail is fully up, the TL should have some stretch in it.

Good luck  -  remember that a sail has only been finished when it has been correctly rigged.

Arne

PS: Here is how it should look. The HK parrels do most of the job, but by pulling a bit on the THP, the load on the HKPs is much reduced. No bend in the battens.

PPS:
The diagonal creases in your sail are not just cosmetic. They remove a good deal of camber, so I think you lose some drive and suffer added drag instead.
Going upwind and tacking is all about improving the lift to drag ratio.

On the starboard tack on a close reach the sail balances the boat just about perfectly without me touching anything. On the port tack there just a little bit of weather helm. It is barely noticeable but it is enough that the boat will tack through if I don't keep my hand on the tiller.

The video shows me tacking to change from the starboard to port tack. It is much more difficult to 'make' this tack. I have 'missed' and got blown back onto the starboard tack several times. (It seems to happen most often when people on shore can see me). Tacking the other direction is very easy. I have never had a problem.

I am trying to decide if this is a problem that I can fix, or if this is just the way it is.