Converting kingfisher 20+ to JR

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  • 11 Mar 2022 05:11
    Reply # 12655323 on 12612831
    Stephen wrote:I hadn't thought about contacting memeber to ask if they wanted to sell theirs, though I did put up a message on the swap, buy or sell page asking if anyone had one for sale..



    Oops!  I've just gone and made the same suggestion on your other posting.  The reason I suggest the direct approach is because heaps of members hardly ever look at the website.

  • 21 Feb 2022 12:35
    Reply # 12615269 on 12606824

    I think we've settled on the 'hybrid' as the pragmatic way to get an unstayed mast for a small boat: 

    First, you buy a parallel aluminium tube, spec 6061T6; 5 or 6 metres long, and 150mm diameter x 5mm wall would be about right for a K20+. Then you make up the length with a tapered wooden topmast, shouldered down to slide into the top of the tube and secured with polyurethane sealant or similar - Bostik Simson Marine construction adhesive is good. 

  • 19 Feb 2022 23:43
    Reply # 12612833 on 12606824

    Thank you all for your comments... Is is easy getting a mast?  Seeing the plan for the sail with dimensions and also seeing the ways of producing cambre on the sail leaves me with plenty of ideas, though finding a 20-22ft Junk rigged boat ready to sail would be my prefered route if I could find one...

  • 19 Feb 2022 23:39
    Reply # 12612831 on 12608833
    Anonymous wrote:

    And PJR includes the sail plan for Pilmer, the original JR Kingfisher 20.

    PS have you thought of contacting those members in the JRA who own a Kingisher 20 and asking them if they'd like to sell their boat? 

    I hadn't thought about contacting memeber to ask if they wanted to sell theirs, though I did put up a message on the swap, buy or sell page asking if anyone had one for sale..


  • 19 Feb 2022 11:06
    Reply # 12611794 on 12611704
    Arne wrote:

    Mauro,
    when I suggested the JR with the mast through the foredeck to Steven Daw, it was because his boat was fitted with a Bermudan rig. My thinking was that the trunk cabin of the junk-rigged versions may have been strengthened somehow, while the Bermuda-rigged version may lack this extra strength. I have fitted several boats with JR masts through the foredeck without needing to beef them up a lot, so aimed for that.

    Only later did I spot that hatch on the foredeck. Now, it’s fully possible to replace that hatch with a solid (plywood) lid and run the mast through this. Many have done that. However, your use of the original JR mast position is just fine. In case you later find that the weather helm is on the high side, you may improve the rudder by fitting an endplate to it.

    Cheers,
    Arne


    Hi Arne,

    thank you for suggesting the solution in case of weather helm!  

    I've read your write about end plates and I think it could be something within the reach of my skills. Anyway the next time that I go to the boat I will also put a tube through the fore hatch and see where would lay its foot and in wich position it would be... 

    Now I'm focused on finishing the rigging and then testing the boat (we are sooooo curios!).

    I will post the progress on an own thread...

    It is really nice to be part of this community.

    Ciao 

    Mauro

  • 19 Feb 2022 09:36
    Reply # 12611704 on 12606824
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Mauro,
    when I suggested the JR with the mast through the foredeck to Steven Daw, it was because his boat was fitted with a Bermudan rig. My thinking was that the trunk cabin of the junk-rigged versions may have been strengthened somehow, while the Bermuda-rigged version may lack this extra strength. I have fitted several boats with JR masts through the foredeck without needing to beef them up a lot, so aimed for that.

    Only later did I spot that hatch on the foredeck. Now, it’s fully possible to replace that hatch with a solid (plywood) lid and run the mast through this. Many have done that. However, your use of the original JR mast position is just fine. In case you later find that the weather helm is on the high side, you may improve the rudder by fitting an endplate to it.

    Cheers,
    Arne


  • 18 Feb 2022 14:08
    Reply # 12609889 on 12609678
    Anonymous wrote:

     In addition, your Frøken Sørensen sail will have its CE forward of Pilmer’s original, partly because the battens of FS are only 3.65m while Pilmer’s battens are 3.83m.

    I think you will be all right.
    Good luck!

    Arne


    Hi Arne,

    your opinion make me feel more secure with my beginner speculations about the sail...

    Thanks again.

    Mauro  

  • 18 Feb 2022 11:25
    Reply # 12609678 on 12606824
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Hi Mauro,

    it’s good to meet a real doer here!

    Now I have plonked my suggested JR onto Pilmer’s sailplan. The tack of the sail has been positioned in the same place with respect to the bow. As can be seen, Pilmer’s rig sits a lot further aft. My sail was positioned with its CE about in the same position as in the Bermudan rig of the Kingfisher 20.

    However, my sail can easily be shifted aft 200-250mm on the existing mast. In addition, your Frøken Sørensen sail will have its CE forward of Pilmer’s original, partly because the battens of FS are only 3.65m while Pilmer’s battens are 3.83m.

    I think you will be all right.
    Good luck!

    Arne


  • 18 Feb 2022 06:29
    Reply # 12609201 on 12606824

    Hi Arne, hi Steven,

    I'm an owner of a JR Kingfisher 20+ and the mast on my boat is situated at the fore end of the coachroof. It looks so also in Mimpi (the German one) and in Pilmer. I'm not an expert but the mast in the position that you suggest would stay approximately at the convergence between of the two fore bunks and the sail catcher. I don't know if this would be a good position to bild the mast foot. 

    For the sail I've used the sail plan of Froken Sørensen (SA 20,4 sq.m.). The reason way I used the plains of a sail of another boat is that I've made the sail myself without any prior experience and I wanted to avoid miscalculations while drawing the sail myself. They sail plans of Arne are extreme detailed...so I just grabbed one, let it print on paper and cut the panels! 

    I don't know how will perform the boat with the new sail. I plan to have the first trials in summer in the gulf of Cagliari in south Sardegna where I come from. About the making of the making of the sail: I can just reccomand the scripts of Arne (on this site: Junk Information; Public domain files by....; Arne Kverneland). They give clear explanation of every single step and are plenty with pictures of different sails making and rigging and more...(thank you a lot Arne!!). 

    I've hoisted the sail a couple of weeks ago. That day it was getting too dark and cold to install the Hong Kong parrels. On that day I've installed the lines for the throat hauling parrels and the yard hauling parrels but just for the optic because I did'n have the blocks for them.  I think that that's way there are a lot of diagonal creases! Meanwhile I have the new blocks and I'm ready for the HK parrels, but I'm in quarantine and I cannot go to the boat.

     If you want, I can take some pictures of mast, partners and mast foot as I get to the boat again to complete the rigging…


    Ciao Mauro 


    3 files
  • 18 Feb 2022 00:59
    Reply # 12608833 on 12606824

    And PJR includes the sail plan for Pilmer, the original JR Kingfisher 20.

    PS have you thought of contacting those members in the JRA who own a Kingisher 20 and asking them if they'd like to sell their boat? 

    Last modified: 18 Feb 2022 01:00 | Anonymous member
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