Galion 22 conversion

  • 24 May 2021 08:28
    Reply # 10543335 on 5070195

    That's just it... the said someone just noticed (I have no idea why he didnt't realize this before) that the top has some 400-500mm straight section before it starts to taper.

    This new topmast has a length of 365cm before it slides inside the 130/5mm bottom part.

    Oh, how I wish I had a mental capacity of an organized engineer at least on some days to be able to keep away from these kind of stupid mistakes :/

    EDIT: There is enough mast length to cut away the straight 60mm part. Does anyone have an idea on how to get the glued cap off, now that it's ok to destroy the part of the mast it's been glued to?

    Last modified: 24 May 2021 09:17 | Anonymous member
  • 24 May 2021 07:51
    Reply # 10543194 on 5070195

    Uh-oh! Absolutely impossible, I'd say. Or should be, if  the Sika is adhering properly.

    60mm will feel pretty thin when you're hanging from it in a bosun's chair or climbing harness, but will be OK so long as the taper below it is quite steep, ie, the 60mm doesn't extend downwards below the plug, but increases rapidly towards the maximum diameter.

  • 24 May 2021 06:52
    Reply # 10542940 on 5070195

    Let's say someone has glued a nylon mast cap with Sikaflex 291i a week ago. If the said someone should need to remove the cap, is is possible without breaking the cap and/or the mast?

    And does 60/3mm sound too thin for the mast top in a 1500 kg boat?

    Last modified: 24 May 2021 06:53 | Anonymous member
  • 22 May 2021 19:48
    Reply # 10536240 on 5070195

    I think you’re right. It’s probably best to start thinking of a new mounting system.

    Last modified: 22 May 2021 19:50 | Anonymous member
  • 22 May 2021 18:25
    Reply # 10535920 on 5070195

    Well, yes, a split system can work, but you understand that the pendulum part is different from what you already have? Look in Member's Files>drawings>David's vane gears to compare the two. Is it really worth changing? My vane gear stays mounted and with the blade in the water all the sailing season, without issues. There's no need to take it off and put it back on  frequently if the blade is antifouled.

  • 22 May 2021 17:40
    Reply # 10535701 on 5070195

    David,
    do you think a split system could work, if I removed the vane and turret from the gear and set it on the solar arc + made a long and wide enough frame for the pendulum system?

  • 22 May 2021 08:20
    Reply # 10533736 on 5070195

    Slieve, 

    I'm afraid that my outboard prevents using the RHM system because the motor would obstruct the port restraint line.

    Last modified: 22 May 2021 08:20 | Anonymous member
  • 21 May 2021 13:03
    Reply # 10529458 on 5070195
    Anonymous member (Administrator)
    Bonjour
    A simple alternative would be to skip the angle on the trailing edge of the rudder, at surface level. You would then have a B configuration above and an A one under the surface.

    For that you have two ways depending if the rudder is glassed or not.
    If the rudder is not glassed you could plane the trailing edge a few centimeters.
    If the rudder is glassed, it is possible to add a small peace of foam to extend backwards the lower part of the rudder.
    The effort on a tab are very low, the power to turn the rudder is provided by the water flow. While sailing, It can be moved by a single finger. (on the Navik where the pendulum is free in rotation and managed by a tab, they had developed an autopilot that was moving the tab with a scale boat 1970 technology servo-command !) . On the view, the engine is the black plastic piece arrowed "Moteur du pilote".
    Eric
    1 file
    Last modified: 21 May 2021 13:09 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 21 May 2021 12:42
    Reply # 10529448 on 5070195

    True, although I was hoping to be able to fit the vane turret on the solar panel arc. Being a non-engineer I never understood the split system drawing you made...

    On my existing system the vane turret is quite heavy, and makes it hard to lift the system out when needed. The vane also has very little room to work (because of the said arc).

  • 21 May 2021 09:52
    Reply # 10529154 on 5070195

    Jami,

    If you were starting from zero, the trim tab would be a contender, but ...

    Given that you already have a pendulum gear to my design that you say works very well, it seems to me that for the least amount of new work and the most confidence in the end result, you only have to make a new mounting frame that is wide enough and long enough to fit around the new rudder. That avoids stepping into the unknown with the RHM, and probably getting worse performance all round  from the trim tab.

    Don't be afraid to tilt the frame up a bit, so that servo blade trails and the vane leans forward a bit - say 2 - 4 degrees. This will make it easier to get the servo blade clear of the rudder.

    Last modified: 21 May 2021 09:56 | Anonymous member
       " ...there is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing as simply messing about in junk-rigged boats" 
                                                               - the Chinese Water Rat

                                                              Site contents © the Junk Rig Association and/or individual authors

Powered by Wild Apricot Membership Software