Rope Materials

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  • 18 Apr 2011 11:13
    Reply # 572688 on 572490
    Deleted user
    Today's project is to fit the running luff hauling parrel that everyone's been telling me to fit.  I've got the string and the blocks and the fresh overnight breeze is dying away, so I suppose I'd better get out there and get to work.

    I have to admit that I didn't want to add another piece of rope to the rig but the luff hauling parrel was worth it. The difference in sail management and control is like night and day. I think you will enjoy the junk rig even more than previously.
  • 18 Apr 2011 10:15
    Reply # 572672 on 554766
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Stavanger, Monday

                                       Climbing rope

    When considering ropes for halyard, it is easy to fall in the Bermuda rig trap where everything is to be very taut. Junk rig is something different so I think Paul McKay’s idea sounds good. After all he has tried it too.

    If I were offered cheap climbing rope to use on a boat of Johanna’s size, I certainly would consider it. Used for a sheet some stretch would not hurt at all. Even as a halyard I think it may work well. After all, most people could hoist Johanna’s sail by hand using the 5-part halyard. Under sailing load I doubt if the halyard force will exceed 50kg force or at least not 100kg. That would mean 250-500kg force on the yard which sounds a lot. A pulling force of 50-100 kg is not more than 5 – 10% of the rope’s breaking strength so the stretch should be moderate. When choosing rope for a halyard I would be more interested in how easily the rope will run through the blocks. A stiff rope makes hoisting a lot harder and the sail will also be less willing to come down by its own weight. The one place where a low-stretch rope would be my choice would be for boltrope, in particular the one running along the leech.

    Arne

  • 18 Apr 2011 00:52
    Reply # 572494 on 554766
    Whitworths here in Oz sell them.

    https://www.whitworths.com.au/main_itemdetail.asp?cat=200&item=16307&intAbsolutePage=1
    In NZ they can be had here.
    http://www.discount-marine.co.nz/shop/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=189_307
  • 18 Apr 2011 00:44
    Reply # 572490 on 554766
    Hi Barry

    Yes, those Defender cam cleats are exactly what I was thinking of and I'm glad to see they are still available.  The old ones were made of Tufnol: these I see are off aluminium and will undoubtedly have dissimilar metals in them, so would probably need more regular maintenance, but the price is very, very reasonable.  Shame that they'd probably cost about the same in postage out of USA.

    My smaller lines are being secured on some small, bronze jamming cleats that I picked up in a second hand shop.  They are effective, but I guess I'd have to admit that I was also tempted to give my little ship some handsome hardware, too!

    Today's project is to fit the running luff hauling parrel that everyone's been telling me to fit.  I've got the string and the blocks and the fresh overnight breeze is dying away, so I suppose I'd better get out there and get to work.

    PS I've also come across climbers' rope.  Lovely stuff, but have rarely been able to lay hands on it.
  • 17 Apr 2011 22:30
    Reply # 572441 on 572241
    Barry & Meps / Stellrecht & Schulte wrote:
    Paul McKay wrote: Climbing rope is identical to the rope we use for rigging and comes in various thicknesses.

    I always thought it was made of stretchier fibers like nylon rather than low-stretch ones like polyester, and would make a good dock line, but not so good for rigging.
    Climbing rope does indeed remain very elastic, however it's been used. It's usually 9mm "half-rope" or 11mm. I was once given some that had been used on an indoor climbing wall, and it had become extremely hard, intractable and difficult to tie, after running through the belay devices so much. I found a few minor uses for it before binning it.
    Climbing rope in good condition, however, could well be used for sheets, and fixed and running parrels, but I wouldn't want to use it on the halyard. I've used some "half rope" for sheet spans, and the elasticity wasn't noticeable.
    "Static" rope, used not to protect against a fall, but for abseiling, gear hauling etc, is not stretchy, and could be used for halyards. 
  • 17 Apr 2011 13:41
    Reply # 572241 on 572011
    Deleted user
    Paul McKay wrote: Climbing rope is identical to the rope we use for rigging and comes in various thicknesses.

    I always thought it was made of stretchier fibers like nylon rather than low-stretch ones like polyester, and would make a good dock line, but not so good for rigging.
  • 17 Apr 2011 13:39
    Reply # 572238 on 570891
    Deleted user
    Annie Hill wrote:Those old-fashioned jammers with two sprung jaws are good - especially for  three-strand - if you could track them down.

    Are you talking about cam cleats like this? cam cleat on defender.com

    Or do you refer to something else?

    Barry
  • 16 Apr 2011 20:18
    Reply # 572011 on 554766
    Fellow Junkies, I pass on a tip from 20 years ago regarding rigging. Climbing rope is identical to the rope we use for rigging and comes in various thicknesses. They used to come in 200 foot lengths. (60 metres) Once a climber has had a fall (and been saved by his rope) their advice is not to use it again but buy new rope. Therefore all climbers who are not adrenalin freaks will have some old rope to sell. This rope is perfectly good for our purposes (pre-stretched!) and will last for years. I know, I still have some from 20 years ago. Find a climbing club and post a note looking for used ropes. Offer them a reasonable price and who knows, you could start your next business selling cheaper rigging and mooring ropes. 
    May you never kick the habit!
    Paul McKay
  • 15 Apr 2011 13:15
    Reply # 571183 on 570909
    Deleted user
    Gary Pick wrote:
    Annie Hill wrote: I followed the thread and she is looking good. 

    I reckon you are going for the right size in sheets, etc - essentially one size up from PJR.

    Generally I'd agree with your man (on the Wooden Boat Forum) who said go for cleats, but with that slippery stuff you often need an extra turn.  Rope clutches are expensive and cheap ones have handles sticking out that could rip a toe off.  Those old-fashioned jammers with two sprung jaws are good - especially for  three-strand - if you could track them down.

    Thanks Annie. The sprung jaw style rope jammers are easy to get and I did look at them. I've just bought 3 rope clutches, two of them Spinlocs for only $80...normally around $90 each new. These ones have non snag style handles when closed.
    Well off to the physio for my last visit.

    On Easy Go we have only used cleats for all the different types of rope. They have worked well with polyester and polypropylene ropes and give a good lever advantage when pulling up that last little length of rope to the proper tension. This had saved us the cost of winches which we do not have. We have positioned the cleats for easy access from the conning hatch. Nice clear decks.
    Last modified: 15 Apr 2011 13:15 | Deleted user
  • 15 Apr 2011 01:29
    Reply # 570909 on 570891
    Annie Hill wrote: I followed the thread and she is looking good. 

    I reckon you are going for the right size in sheets, etc - essentially one size up from PJR.

    Generally I'd agree with your man (on the Wooden Boat Forum) who said go for cleats, but with that slippery stuff you often need an extra turn.  Rope clutches are expensive and cheap ones have handles sticking out that could rip a toe off.  Those old-fashioned jammers with two sprung jaws are good - especially for  three-strand - if you could track them down.

    Thanks Annie. The sprung jaw style rope jammers are easy to get and I did look at them. I've just bought 3 rope clutches, two of them Spinlocs for only $80...normally around $90 each new. These ones have non snag style handles when closed.
    Well off to the physio for my last visit.
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