Converting a MG Sring 25 to Junk Rig

  • 08 Mar 2026 11:42
    Reply # 13607145 on 13605061
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    By far the simplest and strongest way to place a mast is through the foredeck. My only reason for adding some plywood under the deck, around the mast, is to spread the compression loads from the bolts.
    However, this mast position does not suit all interiors or sailplans...

    Arne

    (.. full size diagram in Arne’s sketches, section 8...)


  • 07 Mar 2026 23:44
    Reply # 13607093 on 13605061
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Anre wrote: "If your boat were mine, I would just replace the deck hatch with some sort of lid, made either from aluminium, ss. steel or glassed plywood. I might add a couple of plywood knees on the underside  -  not sure. I have never had structural issues with the partners I have made."

    Kynaston is in luck.  In a few days time the March edition of JRA Magazine will be out, and it features a JR conversion (Mwera) with illustrations, with just the through-hatch detail recommended by Arne. 


    Last modified: 08 Mar 2026 02:27 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 07 Mar 2026 09:46
    Reply # 13606934 on 13605061
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Kynaston,

    I start with making a rough calculation of the vessel’s righting moment. In this case I guestimate your boat’s moment to be MR =1000kpm, or thereabouts. The mast has to take that bending moment (+ safety factor) at the partners. The distance from partners to mast step in your boat is about 1.4m. Since the Moment = force x arm, the side-force at the partners and step should be 1000kpm/1.4m= 714kp. This is much lower than the force in the chainplates for the shrouds (BR), since these are positioned well inboard on your boat.
    My reason for multiple layers of plywood at the mast step is not to strengthen the hull. It is partly to get a big contact surface against the hull for the glue to work on.  The other is to let me adjust the mast’s position there at the first trial stepping of the mast. That allows me to only have 20mm clearance around the mast at the partners.

    If your boat were mine, I would just replace the deck hatch with some sort of lid, made either from aluminium, ss. steel or glassed plywood. I might add a couple of plywood knees on the underside  -  not sure. I have never had structural issues with the partners I have made.

    In my Ingeborg, I have secured the mast to the mast step, using a bolt through the mast and then lashing this to the mast step. That prevents the mast both from rotating or unstepping itself.

    Good luck,
    Arne

    PS: Looking at the sailplan I made, I now guess it would make sense to add 200mm to the mast, and then move the sail 100-200mm upwards to improve clearance below it.

    PPS: How is the helms balance of your boat with the present rig?


    Last modified: 07 Mar 2026 09:50 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 07 Mar 2026 00:51
    Reply # 13606888 on 13605061

    Thanks to all for the very prompt replies, I very much appreciate the advice. A particular thanks to Arne, I have been reading through some of your notes, brilliant. The one aspect I had been thinking about was the matter of strengthening the deck and hull to suport the unstayed mast. When I read your notes, I was suprised to see that you added 6 layers of plywood under the foot of the mast., but only added1 layer of plywood as backing to the partners at the deck. Do you assume that the existing deck is of sufficient strength to take all transverse loads the mast applies to the deck? Do you think I can make the same assumption for my boat? What should the clearance be between the Mast and the partners? Should there be any mechanical fixing for the mast to the boat? Regards Kyn Leech

  • 06 Mar 2026 14:46
    Reply # 13606579 on 13605061
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Maybe something like this? It could be that the sail should be shifted 100-150mm aft; I'm not sure...

    Arne

    PS:
    That boat is actually begging for a JR. The tall, original mast must catch a lot of wind, making sailing to windward in a Force 5+ difficult.
    The shown JR, with the same SA as the BR, has a much lower mast. My experience is that such a sail goes surprisingly well to windward with only three panels set (about 13sqm).

    ((Hi-res photo in my member's album, Arne's Sketches, section 8...)

    Last modified: 06 Mar 2026 15:08 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 06 Mar 2026 05:13
    Reply # 13606493 on 13605061
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    To answer the question of how to calculate the geometric centre of the rig (CoE) I suspect it doesn’t matter too much whether you include the overlap of the genoa or not.

    The calculation is a little bit different, but there is a self-cancelling aspect to it too.

    Out of curiosity I did a rough calculation using the diagram given by sailboatdata for the MG Spring 25 and assumed it is a proper scale drawing of the sail plan. (An assumption I have found to be wrong on a recent similar exercise). The exercise was also done roughly on a computer screen, no CAD software, so this should be taken as an approximate exercise.

    The result, as I suspected it would be, was pretty much the same. The difference is within what I would consider to be the margin of error in my rough drawing.

    I didn’t read the question properly to start with, and over-looked your description of the genoa as having a high clew, but that detail, if anything, would have made the results even closer.

    Now for your other question, as to where the mast should be placed – that depends entirely on the type of rig you want – or (a more practical way of looking at it) you could place the mast where internal accommodation and structural details demand it, and by reverse reasoning, find the type of rig which will fit.

    By type of rig, I mean, basically, whether it is a high mast balance (low yard angle) type of rig, or a low mast balance (high yard angle) type of rig.

    To demonstrate I fitted (very roughly – Mk1 eyeball) two extreme rigs.

    The Amiina Mk2 rig (split junk rig) has a mast balance of 33%, and I picked one of Arne’s Johanna rigs which allows a mast balance as low as 12 %. You will probably want a rig which is somewhere inside this range.


    When the rig is placed so that its geometric centre  lies on the same vertical line as your original geometric centre, you will see where the mast ends up. You can see from these two diagrams that the mast could be just aft of the hatch (if the balance is 33%) or just forward of it (if the balance is 12%), or anything in between – as the range of possible junk rigs vary between these two extremes (33% to 12%).

    Your internal accommodation arrangements, and the presence of any internal bulkheads, will probably lead you to decide mast position, which in turn will dictate mast balance and over-all planform of the rig you choose.

    The drawings, as explained, are based on the assumption that the sailboatdata drawing is approximately to scale, that the sail plan shown approximates to yours, and on the basis that my additions are not done with any great amount of accuracy but mainly just to demonstrate the idea. The result won’t be too far off the mark, but I suggest you do it all again yourself, preferably using CAD software and accurate measurements which you can get from your boat. If I have made any major error here no doubt this will be picked up by others who have more expertise than me, this will be enough for you to decide if you want to go ahead with the idea.

    From your comment about the way your boat stands up in strong wind, you will presumably not try to add more sail area than the designer originally called for (and there is no real need). Arne has reported that his boat sails pretty well with just the top panels, so if you anticipate deep reefing, maybe one of the Johanna rigs will suit – there is quite a range of them if you look at Arne’s notes in the technical section of the website documents section. The split junk rig will suit if you want the mast as far aft as possible, you can read Slieve’s notes on the SJR which are also in the documents section.

    Hope that helps.


    Last modified: 06 Mar 2026 05:31 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 05 Mar 2026 22:11
    Reply # 13605402 on 13605061
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Bonsoir

    Your boat seems a great candidate for a junk rig. 

    The wing keel is not an issue as a X99 has been succefully modified with a junk rig. 

    The two rudders and the low deplacement to lest ratio should be a rather good thing as the center of sail effort is lower on a junk rig. 

    I never modified a boat to junk rig but my understanding is that you should use the total area of the genoa to find the center eo effort of the actual rig.

    eric

    Ps : A great option for the Jester Challenge !

    Last modified: 05 Mar 2026 22:13 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 05 Mar 2026 03:16
    Message # 13605061

    I am right at the start of considering to convert my boat to junk rig. My existing rig is a standard burmudan sloop rig with a 130% jenny with a high cut clew (for a good view forward). When I am calculating my existing CE, how should I treat the 130% aspect of the jenny? Should I disregard it and only measure the triangle forward of the mast?

    I have been sailing this boat for 6 years now and I have been pleased with the way she sails particularly in light to moderate wind. However if the wind gets up to force 6 then even with the main triple reefed and the jenny rolled up to suit, she will be knocked flat on her ear. I have then had to motor, and then she would slam considerably. I am hoping that with a junk rig I would be able to reef down to a lower sail area, and be able to continue. JRA members please comment ?

    I suspect the new mast position to suit JR would be where there is an opening hatch on fore deck. My boat is an all GRP construction, please advise on recomended extra lay up required. Also new mast hieght.

    My current sailing is in the Solent, and along south coast to Falmouth. However I would like to build the boat to suit Atlantic crossings.

    For those who are not conversant with MG Spring 25

    LOA 25Ft 6in, Beam 8ft 9in, Draft 3ft , with wing keel and twin rudders, and shallow hull.

    I have read that shallow draft boat are suited to Junk rig.Can JRA members please comment on sitability of my boat to junk rig?

    best regards Kyn Leech