Bonsoir Jacques,

What do you advice me for sail fabric ? 

It depends on what kind of sailing you are going to do. As a standard sail fabric I would recommend "Swela Outgard 393", which is a 190 g/m² polyester fabric that looks good on both sides. I use it, and it is pretty tough. Havn't tried (yet), but I would estimate this fabric could easily carry you above the pond and back again. If, however, you plan to sail for extended times in stormy conditions, only then I would opt for something heavier - at least in the upper panels.

Could you please sent me your sailplan ? I am working on my sailplan.

My current sailplan on Ilvy is the same as on Boudicca of Ketil Greve, it is a Johanna 60 design from Arne. You can find it in his very comprehensive TCPJR texts.

Cheers,

Paul

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:

Bonsoir Jacques

The mast step should be made of plywood and epoxy to spred the load of the pylonning mast (shoppy sea) to the hull. 

The tube is more an alternative or a complement to the reinforcement at deck level.

The tube goes from the mast step to the deck and above; as it is on a Laser. It is an elegant way to build a stuck. It prevent any water ingress at deck level. It uses the two plywood vertical reinforcements under the forward berth to spred the efforts. 

Of course, a water drain should be available at the mast step. 

I agree that there is a risk of corosion but normally the aluminium tube should not be in contact with water and even less with salty water. This tube should be in a dry zone protected by the waterproff mast colar, at the stuck level. Of course a drain should be installed at the bottom of the tube to let any water or condensation out.

As both tubes, the mast and the partner are in aluminium, the risk of electrolysis should be minimal.

Eric

PS : My knowledge is academic and ingeneering! I don't have any experience hands on in this domain !

Hi, I have recently made a mast partner for an aluminium mast, which is an aluminium tube as you describe here.  I did have concerns about corrosion between the mast and the tube and used something called anti seize assembly paste, essentially some sort of grease, to decrease the risk.  Seawater always seems to find a way in! I do have a drain hole in the plywood base of the mast step which drains into the bilge. 

Jes,

Top !

Do you have photos ? 

Jacques

Jacques

Here you go...Hope these make sense! In my case the mast I had bought (a tapered aluminium street pole) wasn't quite long enough so the mast base rests on a bolt about half way down my mast tube/partners to add about 80cm overall with 12% overlap

Jes

Thanks for photos . It's perfectly clear 

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:

Bonsoir Jacques

The mast step should be made of plywood and epoxy to spred the load of the pylonning mast (shoppy sea) to the hull. 

The tube is more an alternative or a complement to the reinforcement at deck level.

The tube goes from the mast step to the deck and above; as it is on a Laser. It is an elegant way to build a stuck. It prevent any water ingress at deck level. It uses the two plywood vertical reinforcements under the forward berth to spred the efforts. 

Of course, a water drain should be available at the mast step. 

I agree that there is a risk of corosion but normally the aluminium tube should not be in contact with water and even less with salty water. This tube should be in a dry zone protected by the waterproff mast colar, at the stuck level. Of course a drain should be installed at the bottom of the tube to let any water or condensation out.

As both tubes, the mast and the partner are in aluminium, the risk of electrolysis should be minimal.

Eric

PS : My knowledge is academic and ingeneering! I don't have any experience hands on in this domain !

Hi, I have recently made a mast partner for an aluminium mast, which is an aluminium tube as you describe here.  I did have concerns about corrosion between the mast and the tube and used something called anti seize assembly paste, essentially some sort of grease, to decrease the risk.  Seawater always seems to find a way in! I do have a drain hole in the plywood base of the mast step which drains into the bilge. 

Jes,

Top !

Do you have photos ? 

Jacques

Jacques

Here you go...Hope these make sense! In my case the mast I had bought (a tapered aluminium street pole) wasn't quite long enough so the mast base rests on a bolt about half way down my mast tube/partners to add about 80cm overall with 12% overlap

Jes

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:

Soon another junk in France ! That's good news, go ahead Jacques ! :)

Patrick,

Many thanks for encouragement

I saw you leaving the port of Crouesty in may. Nevezadenn is at anchor in Kerners

My wife and I are going to sew the sail. Do you have any advice? 

Good day

Jacques

Jacques,
Maybe you saw us in June in Le Crouesty ? That's the only time we stopped there this year.
Concerning the sail, I can only and strongly recommend all the writings done by Arne Kverneland.
Following his techniques, I only sewed 2 extra panels for Paradox, using an old Brother machine on the dining room floor (not as powerful as Arne's Pfaff 360, far from it) and although the result does not look very professional, it works fine !
I think Paul Schnabel made his own sail too, and also Thomas Poirier. They are on the JRA. And Eric Andlauer of course, but he used very light material (Tyvex, like used for the disposable working overalls).
Good luck !
Patrick 

Anonymous wrote:

Bonsoir Jacques

The mast step should be made of plywood and epoxy to spred the load of the pylonning mast (shoppy sea) to the hull. 

The tube is more an alternative or a complement to the reinforcement at deck level.

The tube goes from the mast step to the deck and above; as it is on a Laser. It is an elegant way to build a stuck. It prevent any water ingress at deck level. It uses the two plywood vertical reinforcements under the forward berth to spred the efforts. 

Of course, a water drain should be available at the mast step. 

I agree that there is a risk of corosion but normally the aluminium tube should not be in contact with water and even less with salty water. This tube should be in a dry zone protected by the waterproff mast colar, at the stuck level. Of course a drain should be installed at the bottom of the tube to let any water or condensation out.

As both tubes, the mast and the partner are in aluminium, the risk of electrolysis should be minimal.

Eric

PS : My knowledge is academic and ingeneering! I don't have any experience hands on in this domain !

Hi, I have recently made a mast partner for an aluminium mast, which is an aluminium tube as you describe here.  I did have concerns about corrosion between the mast and the tube and used something called anti seize assembly paste, essentially some sort of grease, to decrease the risk.  Seawater always seems to find a way in! I do have a drain hole in the plywood base of the mast step which drains into the bilge.