Hi, Jeoffrey.

2 things I see which don't look right to me and 1 which I am just wondering about.

1. The battens seem to have negative rise, ie, lower at the leech than at the luff.

Did you design the sail with positive rise in the battens?  If so, then for starters the sail isn't hoisting correctly

And/or, possibly you may have the sail hoisted too tightly, putting those diagonal stretch lines into the panels.

2. It may be an optical illusion, but the max camber point on the "lense" either side of each batten, seems to have the max camber point on the upper, further back than on the lense below the batten. 

This makes me wonder again if you have put the jiblets on upside down, especially if you designed the sail with positive rise. ie, with the batten rising slightly towards the rear. 

3. How tightly have you tightened the panels along the battens, fore and aft. Again if they are overtaut, that would be inclined to induce diagonal stress across the panel.

So, I'd firstly slacken the sail slightly to see if that makes an improvement.

Make sure the battens are getting any rise that you designed in.

If that doesn't cure it.

Then the bit you dont want to do.  Unsew the top panel at the jiblet and reverse the jiblets to see if you put them on upside down.

An easy mistake to make. 

Jeffery wrote:

Well back here in texas...

I lofted the sail agen. Here are photos of the sail completely loos. Just a stadic yard parel and a jarry riged sheet line for the top panel.[...]

Jeffery,

I think maybe you did not attach the photos.

I wouldn't get rid of the sail catcher. You can never muzzle the jibs properly with lazyjacks - sail catcher is an important accessory for a SJR in my opinion, not for sailing but for protecting and controlling your sail when reefed or fully furled, especially those jibs which will pop out of the lazy jacks and flutter. You'll see.

I think now you might be partly on the right track (Ueli's observation is correct, and the diagonal crease in that upside down jib in my photo backs it up) that the severe creases in the jib might not be caused by the jibs being upside down but by what it looks like that the booms and battens might be just hanging, with a negative rise instead of a positive rise. You won't know until you have hoisted the sail properly and tensioned the parrel downhauls a little. (Don't forget also at some point if you haven't already done so, you will probably want to add a standing downhaul to the boom. Once you have that, you can hoist the sail against it and get it to peak properly, and then take some photos).

I won't make any bets about the mains being upside down or not, but you'll know soon enough.

One step at a time, you'll get there, might not be as bad as it looks.

I see the top panel is laced on separately and it is not beyond possibility that the entire lower assembly was laced on upside down - if so, it looks as though it would be easy to remedy.

However, I wouldn't jump to early conclusions.

My initial guess (it's only a guess) is that the mains will prove correct but the jibs might be all upside down. But take it one step at a time.

Here's the approach I would take.

The mains are much easier to tune up, so forget the jibs for the moment and make whatever adjustments are necessary to get the mains setting nicely with semi-circular creases in the baggy panels, on a nice windless day. Try to get the mains panels sorted first. If you can't, and if it is because they are upside down, then it will become obvious and you can flip the entire lower sail. I wouldn't expect that to be the case, but the starting point is to get the the mains sorted, or determine that they are upside down (less likely).

The jibs are more difficult to fathom. When the mains are sorted (if they prove to be right) then and only then you can focus on the jibs. Are they all creased in the same way, or just one or two? Can you tune the creases out by repositioning with respect to the battens (but not upsetting the mains)? If not, then consider flipping one, or all of them as a package.

That's the procedure I would follow. By "tuning" I mean adjusting panels along the battens and or adjusting the fixing positions of the parrel downhalls, one panel at a time.

When adjusting a parrel downhaul fixing position, changes will affect the main and jib panel simultaneously, so if you have got the main panel setting nicely, with the luff approximately lined up with the mast CL, then the parrel fixing position needs no further adjustment and then you will know that the  fault will be the associated jib itself, or its position on the batten.

Adjusting the slingpoint position on the yard can also be considered. This tends to upset the entire sail if it is incorrect. Currently, your top panel looks quite good and I see you have a standing parrel on the yard which seems to be about right - at least for the sail in it's partly raised condition. So leave that for the moment, but just keep in mind that small adjustments to the yard slingpoint position, and also adjustment to that standing parrel, can have quite an effect over-all. As I say, the top panel looks pretty good at this stage, so leave the yard as it is for the moment.

That's the "order of procedure" that I would follow.  You will have that sail up and down many times in the course of a day or two, but you'll get there by logic and careful stepwise adjustment. Then all will be well. (A couple of nice windless days is what you want). You will be able to read the mains pretty easily. Apart from those terrible diagonal creases, the jibs are a lot harder to read until the sail is fully inflated, that is why I suggest get the mains and parrel-downhauls sorted first, then concentrate on the jibs last.

Been there, done that.

You'll get there.

(You mention the sail catcher or "bag" - that should not be affecting anything and you can sort that out later. The sail will work perfectly well without it, but when reefing or stowing the sail it is a real boon on a SJR as the jibs are impossible to muzzle properly even with lazy jacks. Personally I see no point in a lazy jack cradle if you have a sail catcher - all you need is a pair of lifts at the mast and another pair out towards the end of the boom (but not so far back that battens or yard can get on the wrong side of them). This means when the sail is fully raised, lifts and lazyjack barely impinge on the camber of the sail. However I guess that does no harm - lazy jacks and sail catcher is "belts and braces" - no harm in a bit of redundancy, I suppose).

I'm wondering if the creases on the jiblets simply indicate a weak halyard tension. To start trimming, try holding the boom/batten with some makeshift line, somewhere farther from the mast, and tighten the halyard. Then you could try pulling the top corners of the main panels towards the jiblets with some string. Maybe that will help find the cause?