New boat purchase Tripp 30 yawl

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  • 20 Dec 2022 09:38
    Reply # 13030731 on 13016084
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Dean,

    about that mizzen; I think the opposite is the case: The further forward you put it, the bigger it has to be, not smaller. It could well be that the mizzen I have drawn would work at only 3sqm.

    I haven’t tried sailing on a mizzen alone, but I doubt if it will work on your boat, because the rudder is sitting far forward of the mizzen, even the original one. However, remember, with a junk mainsail, this is not an issue. One just raises a panel or two (maybe plus that mizzen) and sneak out of the harbour. Sneaking in or out of a harbour under 1-3 panels is something I do a lot. The first 2-3 panels are so light that it only takes seconds to raise them from the cockpit, and only a split second to dump a panel for speed adjustments.

    The JR I have drawn is a bit too tall for a 38’ mast, stepped at the bottom of the boat. Either one has to fit a slightly lower rig, or one has to make use of a ‘raised step’ setup. Originally, that Tripp 30 appears to be surprisingly under-rigged, no doubt frequently depending on setting big genoas.

    Finally, I fail to understand why a mizzen mast cannot be stepped through the aft deck, somewhere (it may well be offset a little to one side if needed).

    Cheers,
    Arne


    Last modified: 20 Dec 2022 09:39 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 20 Dec 2022 03:05
    Reply # 13030572 on 13016084
    Deleted user

    Hmm, thank you for the input Arne. I’m hoping the conversion will work because I’d rather not keep it as a sloop. I got ahold of some magazine (from the early 60s) of the sail plan. The mizzenmast in your drawing won’t work because the boat itself is set up to have the mizzenmast mast just behind the tiller.

    ‘’would making the sail smaller be better? To keep the mizzenmast where it is I mean. Or maybe a smaller sail can go more forward?

    For trailering question, I can put it on a trailer because it fits in U.S. road limits. I would say that it’s a trailer sailer such that you can take it home every weekend. I would only take it home during winter. The vehicle will be my 3/4 ton suburban or I’ll by a 1 ton truck.

    I was hoping I could raise the mizzenmast sail and be near the tiller and slowly , comfortably sail out of the harbor. Then when I’m clear of obstructions I can raise the rest of the sails and be on my way.

    The panels I want to make are like Roger Taylor’s Mingming 2. The 4 bottom panels being separate and the top panels being one piece. Or I might try and make them all separate.


    If it’s truly not feasible to do a junk rig, I’ll leave it as a sloop. The price was right and I’ve always wanted a yawl. Having one this size was too good to pass up.

    5 files
    Last modified: 20 Dec 2022 03:11 | Deleted user
  • 19 Dec 2022 10:21
    Reply # 13029695 on 13016084
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Although I am not super happy with fitting a JR to a vessel with such a short keel with the rudder attached to it, I think one can get away with it by making a yawl rig.

    On the shown sailplan (diagram section 6 in my albums), the CE of the junk sail alone sits about 250mm forward of CE of the original Bermuda sloop rig (about over the middle of the boom). When setting the 4sqm mizzen, the total CE shifts 500mm aft, to 250mm behind the CE of the Bermuda rig. This should be helpful in easing the loads on the rudder.
    To further ease the steering downwind, I have increased the ‘mast balance’ of the mainsail to 21-22%. To do that, I lowered the yard angle from my standard 70° to 65°. This also lets me position the mast close to the aft end of the foredeck..

    The mizzen mast is positioned through the aft deck, right aft of the cockpit coaming. One or two boomkins would be needed to sheet the mizzen. I would use a sprit boom and simply furl the sail along the mast.

    Something like that...

    Arne


  • 18 Dec 2022 23:02
    Reply # 13029365 on 13016084
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    On CLR CoE etc I think Arne has nailed it perfectly. I like Arne's expression "fudge factor". ("Magic art" and "educated guess" was perhaps being too polite).


    Jan, referring to Dave Zeiger's "Thai lashing" method of attaching the individual panels to the battens - you might have missed the essential reason for it.

    It's hard to make contact with Dave at times as he is often in remote areas, so in case he can't chime in ... (my first thought was, I'll bet he won't do that again next time! It must have taken a lot of work...)

    You see, Dave was intending to use the "shelf foot" method to build his sails, but he ran out of time to make the shelfs for the mains panels, so he just attached the centre part of each panel to the battens, with longish lashings in place of the missing "shelfs". This left some pretty big gaps in the sail. I am assuming the lengths of the lashings are carefully varied along the battens, in order to dummy the shape of the shelfs and give the correct camber.


    It must have taken a lot of work and time measuring bits of string and getting the knots in the right place. That might be another reason why the mizzen on that boat is uncambered!


    I think Roger Taylor's "hinges" are also varied in length along the boom to give camber to the sail, and I must say I think that might be a better way if the panels need to be not sewn together, but that too must have taken a bit of time to calculate and measure accurately. The reason, I believe, was to be able to make the sail within a confined work space. Dean, why would you want to do that?

    I think what Dave did was only intended to be temporary - interesting that the shelf foot sails did seem to perform perfectly well without the shelfs. Maybe that's the way to go - save a lot of cloth and a lot of sewing! Possibly saved time in the long run. It gives a whole new meaning and dimension to the term "split junk"!

    Perhaps Dave stumbled onto something there!

    I hope Dave can read this, and reply.

    Dean, some of your comments raise slight misgivings - I hope before you make too many commitments that you contact Arne with some drawings of your proposed rig, and structural considerations etc. Its a lovely looking boat and with that long overhang aft the yawl rig makes a lot of sense.

    Last modified: 19 Dec 2022 03:13 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 18 Dec 2022 22:31
    Reply # 13029335 on 13016084
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    CE  -  again

    (..now, Graeme seems to have sorted out this while I was drafting the text below...)

    The discussion about the CE seems to erupt every other year.

    I have eye-balled a great number of sailplans in my time. Most designers operate with the term CE, which stands for Centre of Effort in a sail. However, that doesn’t mean the actual Centre of Pressure (CP) sits in that point. The CE is just the geometrical centre of the area (or combination of several areas). Therefore, a few designers use the term CoA, or Centre of Area about that ‘CE-point’. Still, although the term CoA would be a more correct term, as said, most designers stick to the term CE, even if it is slightly incorrect. I do that too (..there was something about sucking eggs...)

    It is not possible to find the CP of a sail by just drawing a few smart lines (as with the CE). The Centre of Pressure moves around quite a bit while sailing, and its position depends on the shape (camber) of the sail and the angle of attack at the moment. The CP mostly sits a good deal forward of the CE, say about 30-35% from the luff along the chord on a squarish sail.

    The same goes for underwater body. There, most designers operate with the term CLR or Centre of Lateral Resistance. This too is only the geometrical centre of the profile area, with or without counting with the rudder.

    Finally, the designers use in their experience and bring in the magic fudge factor  -  the Lead.

    This Lead is found by measuring how far the CE sits forward of the CLR. The lead is mostly expressed as a percentage of the waterline length. The Lead could be anything between 5 and 16-17%. It is easy to get the Lead a bit off, first time, resulting in excessive weather or lee helm on the resulting sailing vessel.

    Experience is helpful to avoid major screw-ups...

    Cheers,
    Arne


  • 18 Dec 2022 21:58
    Reply # 13029325 on 13016084
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Centre of effort: Wouldn't the pointy sloop CE, yawl CE, and junk CE all be the same given the same hull? 

    In reality, there is actually no such thing as centre of effort (and also no such thing as centre of lateral resistance).

    Both are moving targets, quite variable as the hull heels and pitches, and sails flex and billow and "angle of attack" constantly changes. They exist only in theory.

    The convenient reference points which are used by designers, because they are static and simple to calculate, are usually referred to as CE and CLR but in fact they are merely the geometric centres of the sail and the hull profile.

    There are rules of thumb as to how these two geometric points should relate to each other, [edit: the "lead"] but it is a bit of a magic art and I think experience on the part of the designer, with the type of hull in question, is what most likely will give the best (or optimal) relationship for most of the time. [edit: with some hulls the equations change markedly when the boat heels, so there is no "lead" which is going to be correct all the time - sometimes, with SOME boats, you just have to live with a bit of lee helm in light airs, and too much weather helm when the boat is heeling a lot. Or reef early.]

    All of the articles I have read suggest the centre of area on a junk rig should be slightly aft of that of a BM sail.  I have noticed that too, so it probably means something.

    However, for the record (I am speaking only of the SJR) Slieve, who created the rig, reasoned that in the case of a conversion from bermudan rig to SJR, the SJR should be able to have its centre of area pretty much exactly where the centre of area of the designed bermudan rig would go. So far as I know that has proved satisfactory in all cases, and it proved satisfactory on mine.

    For the "contiguous" or "unsplit" junk rigs, Len is probably right. In any case, its only ever an educated guess, and I would follow the advice of the designers of those rigs.


    As for Dean's suggestion of sailing on mizzen alone - I think Jan is gently pointing out that sailing on mizzen alone is hardly likely to be possible. Perhaps Dean was meaning "under mizzen and staysail alone" ie without the main. But with a junk mainsail, I am sure Jan's suggestion would be better. 

    Last modified: 19 Dec 2022 00:38 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 18 Dec 2022 16:39
    Reply # 13029201 on 13029091
    Anonymous wrote:

    Centre of effort: Wouldn't the pointy sloop CE, yawl CE, and junk CE all be the same given the same hull? 

    When designing the rig we use the centre of area (easy to measure) rather than the centre of effort. All of the articles I have read suggest the centre of area on a junk rig should be slightly aft of that of a BM sail. This probably means that a junk rig has a centre of effort that is sightly forward of the centre of area.


    Edit: perhaps centre of lift is what changes? but maybe that is the same as CE.

    Last modified: 18 Dec 2022 16:55 | Anonymous member
  • 18 Dec 2022 13:20
    Reply # 13029091 on 13016084

    I'm interested too in your idea of sailing on mizen alone, surely you can sail out of the harbour gently on one or two panels of the junk rig when it's in place. The mizen will just be handy for balance.

    As for making individual panel sails, isn't that what David Zeigler of triloboats.com did except they were laced on to each batten rather than the "curtain-tab" method. Is David Zeigler in Alaska and able to offer help?

    Centre of effort: Wouldn't the pointy sloop CE, yawl CE, and junk CE all be the same given the same hull? 

  • 15 Dec 2022 07:53
    Reply # 13026120 on 13016084
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    I don't know enough to help you with your questions, other than to observe that it looks like a lovely classic keelboat design and just the sort of boat which will look lovely as a yawl.

    I was wondering about a couple of things... - it doesn't look to me like a boat which is readily trailerable - do you have some special vehicle for that? Also, when you say "I think I'll be able to sail out of the harbor nice and gently with mizzen alone..." I presume you don't mean literally just with the mizzen?

    (If your aluminium pole is not as long as you wish, I do know that it is easy to add an extension (of wood, or a smaller diameter tube of whatever)).

    Last modified: 16 Dec 2022 19:59 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 06 Dec 2022 21:33
    Message # 13016084
    Deleted user

    Previously I was going to buy a boat here in Alaska. Right after that a 30 foot Yawl came up for sale. I've always wanted a yawl and this one can be trailered. That's another benefit. I can invest resources into it and not have to sell it if I move jobs down to the continental U.S.

    I'm going to put cambered Johanna sails on there but do the Roger Taylor mod where he makes separate panels. Does anyone know if drawings like that have been put on the website? I haven't found them if they're on here.

    I've got the mast located far forward because I don't know where the CE is with the yawl. I've only got the sloop CE. from my drawings though I think I'll locate the mast step in the forward half of the water tank. That'll mean I can have mast partners on a flat deck instead of trying to get it to work where the coach roof comes up.

    I plan on keeping the mizzen mast. We have fairly constant winds in Seward AK. With the mizzen I think I'll be able to sail out of the harbor nice and gently with mizzen alone. That will be cool.

    The nice thing about a boat this size is I can put a heater in it and try my hand at some winter sailing.


    I'm going to buy a 38 foot flagpole. I need to do the math but I'm guessing it will work as a mast. 38 foot is the longest one section flagpole that I can guy. Flagpole stores sell them listed as 35 feet with total length of 38 feet. I've used two of Johanna's sail plans, scaled to the sloop drawing to get what I think is going to be the sail layout.

    The mast weight is over Arne's goal of 2.5% of the boats displacement. Not a lot but some. I wanted the sail to be as high and as large as possible because we have light winds here.


    xtreme series external flagpole from flagpole store
    cost built to order
    Height 10.668 m 35 ft
    Butt dia 177.8 mm 7 in
    wall thick 6.35 mm 0.25 in
    top diam 88.9 mm 3.5 in
    mass 73 kg 160.94 lbs
    break strength 3886 kpm



    4 files
    Last modified: 06 Dec 2022 22:09 | Deleted user
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