From Kevin:

Many thanks, Arne, for this advice - I will start adjusting the rig tomorrow.  The only thing I think may be a problem is moving the halyard on the yard as this will also move the sail down and I have very little space to play with. Appreciate your help.

Kevin.
You may well push the lower end of the sail a little further forward than the top end, say 10-20cm (..or what do I know...).
By canting the sail a little aft like that, there will be less chance for the sheetlets to get caught by the batten ends.

And while I am at it; I suggest you add telltales at the leech of each batten panel to avoid over-sheeting the sail. Simple woolen yarn will work well enough...

Anyway, it is good to see the tacking angles...

Arne

Anonymous wrote:

Good evening Kevin.
This must be more or less armchair speculations.

Fan-up
On my two last boats I have used a FUP as described here (The Mk1 version). I suggest attaching the blocks or thimbles at B and C with15-20cm long strops to minimise friction.

Dropping the sail trouble.
It appears to me to be a friction problem. I usually ease the sheet before lowering the sail. If it sticks (that happened on Johanna), a light tug on the THP may do the trick. If none of these measures work, I guess you will have to fit downhauls ( one or two), as described by Hasler and McLeod (..or a heavier batten, of course...).

Weather helm.
I see that the sail is set with quite little mast balance, even if the batten parrels are long enough to move the sail forward. I suggest that you move the sail forward until you almost get lee helm when close-hauled in light winds. You may need to shift the halyard a little further aft to keep the slingpoint from rubbing the mast. This move not obnly brings the CoE forward, but also more inboard when reaching and running.

THP and LHP
I would fit both these. There will be less need for LHP. The THP does most of the job of removing the diagonal creases while the HK-parrels do the rest. (..check this...)

Hope some of this makes sense.

Good luck,
Arne

Many thanks, Arne, for this advice - I will start adjusting the rig tomorrow.  The only thing I think may be a problem is moving the halyard on the yard as this will also move the sail down and I have very little space to play with. Appreciate your help.

Anonymous wrote:

Meanwhile, the YouTube video that I posted showing the set of the sail on my first outing, which I thought would be of interest to a handful of afficionados at best, has now had 4,000 views.  There are people out there interested in the JR that we never hear from, I suspect.

1 May seemed like a good day for a shake out sail on Wave Rover.  Previous owner Alan Mulholland had called it Wave Rover 2, because he had a previous boat of the same name.  But I decided that boat is somewhere in the Pacific, and I am not going to burden myself with the “2” for every call and form filling I have to do for years to come, so it’s simply “Wave Rover” from now on.  Made official by a nice new stick on vinyl name decal.

Whats new this year is a “new” sail.  Years ago I had bought Jami Jokinen’s self made sail from his Galion 22.  I intended it for my Newbridge Venturer but did not mount it on that in the end.  When Alan Mulholland was finishing off Wave Rover’s build, I offered it to him, but he was already far along on his sail planning.  I never imagined I would use it myself on Wave Rover.

Jami’s sail was almost exactly right in terms of batten length.  But the wooden battens from the original rig were too thick for the sleeves built into the ‘new’ sail so I had some aluminium tubes cut to size.  The new sail was also about 130cm too long, but since Jami had made each panel separate, I was able to take out a panel, which reduced the height by 1 metre, which was just about enough to allow the sail to fit the mast.   Jami had reported some windward helm and I got a bit of that, but not much more than in other boats.  The Wave Rover yard was a bit too short at the head of the sail, perhaps 20CM, but attaching a small wooden batten extension fixes that.  I lashed it on temporarily but will need something more permanent.

So now it’s six panels

Sheeting to Boom and four battens (3 and 2)

Standing line to hold boom back - was not needed with the previous sail, essential with this one.

Standard Yard parrel and Throat parrel from fore end of yard around mast, to a block on batten 1 and down to deck.  The throat parrel takes out most of the diagonal creases but without it, those creases are large.  I plan to sail as is for a short while and add rigging as seems appropriate- a way to adjust the sail balance to reduce windward helm, maybe HK parrels. A FUP, since I had a nice fan up on my first gybe with the new sail.

Anyway, one short outing does not tell all, and I will tryto get more data in future sessions. But the signs were definitely good, and the sail looks well

https://youtu.be/k3xNfgHavU4?si=-EV8nFL-t8lflt45