Anonymous wrote:

For my 24m² sail, I use a 3 part halyard, with no efforts.  It's already a very long halyard ! You can use a winch for the last panels if it's too heavy.

For the upper sheeting, I followed Arne's advice with more anti-twist : Malena upper sheeting fig 2 . You can see that in the beginning of this video https://youtu.be/pLmDwkylE78?si=FJrRqv7ZyE6stvPB&t=21

It reduces chafe on the sail if you use a large webbing for the bottom of the mast lift. I used a seatbelt.

With an aluminium tube as a partner to the mast step, I'd be afraid of corrosion between the mast and the "partner tube", it could be difficult to lift the mast after a few years.  A plywood mast step glued to the hull and reinforcement with plywood at the partner will be enough for strength.

I hope I could show you my boat soon !

Mast step : 

Aluminium lamppost has a hole at the bottom to leave a passage for electric cable (photo enclosed) ; A plywood mast step is a good idea , but I must reinforce mast with an inside sleeve aluminium  

The project is moving forward 

- Mast : I get back a city lamppost week 35.

- Sail : I am waiting for estimate

- Some questions :

• Four-part halyard or Five-part halyard ?
• Sheet - file enclosed
• Mast lift ?
• Topping-lifts : 
• Yard hauling parrel ?
• Standing tack parrel
• Standing topping lifts - file enclosed

- partners : aluminium tube ( work planned for october)

I am waiting for comments and suggestions

Have a good day

Anonymous wrote:

Bonjour Jacques

In terms of mecanical efforts, the more burry (height between the mast step and the stuck) the best. A rule of thumb is to have a bury of at least 10% of the mast height. 

In your drawing,  the mast step is positionned quite high in regard to the bottom of the hull. 

I would rather put it as low as possible. 

There are at least two different options. One would be to cut the longitudinal plywood reenforcement to give way to the mast, the other would be to move the mast laterally a few centimeters to position the mast against the longitudinal reinforcement. It could even be possible to build the mast step as a tube (as on the laser) that would be glassed to both longitudinal and transversal reinforcement. 

In this case, you would have at the lower part,against the hull, a few glassed layers of plywould to flatten the hull shape and provide a horizontal support to the mast. 

Eric

Anonymous wrote:

Jacques wrote:

Arne,

Some News :

Mast : In september , I get back a street lamp in aluminium ( 10 m , diameter At the bottom  : 16 cm At the top : 10 cm )

Questions :

What thickness for mast floor ? 

What thickness for " étambrai " (in french) : 60 mm 6 x 10 mm ?  for reinforcement deck ?  Omega ou Porque 

PS : Bermudian Ring For sale  !!!

Have a good day 

Jacques

Here is how I built the mast step on my Ingeborg. It may not be the quickest way, but it is quite straightforward. My main motive was to create the biggest possible glued area between the mast sole and the hull, to exclude any chance of it ever to come loose. I have used this method on 3-4 boats and they have all worked well.

http://bit.ly/2sf2tsW

Good luck!

Arne

Photos : Inside - stuck & mast step draft - How do you feel about this plan?

Jacques, can I ask you where you buy your lamp post ?