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Tyvek and other building wraps for experimental sails

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  • 06 Dec 2025 20:34
    Reply # 13570504 on 13546768

    Thanks, Eric!
    I've already bought 5 x 4 m bluetarp for the new sail, which is actually more than I need.

    I think I'll eventually learn how to sew this bluetarp, especially since it won't be a large sail. The sail will have a maximum of five panels, each 1 sq m, so even if I damage some of the material, it won't hurt.
    My previous bluetarp sail is still in pretty good shape after two seasons, so I'll stick with that material for now. I just need to experiment with sewing. I'll lubricate the thread, sew slower, and I'm sure it will work.

    I have plenty of time until summer ;)

    Thanks again and best regards - Jan

  • 06 Dec 2025 06:17
    Reply # 13570396 on 13569953
    Anonymous member (Administrator)
    Anonymous wrote:

    Since I haven't ruled out using ripstop fabric for some panels, I think I'll have to familiarize myself with a sewing machine, especially since everyone says it's the fastest way to make a sail.

    Bonjour 

    Under my experience, mostly on Tyvex, it is much faster to glu than to sew. 

    Especially for back-wind, light wind, sails as spinnakers, racing sailsmay be glued. 

    Eric

  • 04 Dec 2025 20:47
    Reply # 13569953 on 13546768

    Dzień dobry, Eric!

    Regarding tarpaulins, there seem to be many types and different names. Just look at the website of the store where Paul G bought his tarpaulin: .
    I used the cheapest tarpaulin for my current sail, and I want to use the same one for my next sail:  .
    It cost about 10 euros. I thought it was an HDPE mat coated with LDPE, but now I'm not sure. Unfortunately, the manufacturer (from China) doesn't provide any information about the composition.

    I've also read that although tarpaulins are supposed to be identified by color (bluetarp = the weakest and probably made of polypropylene, white = stronger, etc.), Eastern manufacturers don't always follow these rules. Either way, for my needs, the one I'm using (bluetarp) will suffice for now.

    Your method (welding) looks interesting. I'm wondering if it would be possible to use, for example, an electric plastic welder with a set of staples, which (the staples) could be used similarly to the soldering tips you use  . If they get too hot, you can try using a dimmer.

    Since I haven't ruled out using ripstop fabric for some panels, I think I'll have to familiarize myself with a sewing machine, especially since everyone says it's the fastest way to make a sail.

    The sail I've used for two seasons so far (an SJR origami with bluetarp) I made quite carelessly, as I glued it together with carpet tape, and halfway through the first season, I used the sewing machine to only touch up a few spots. That's how I know the fabric stuck to the needle.

    I must admit that I want to make my next sail according to the rules posted on the forum, so I'm even more nervous about that.

    Best regards, Jan.

  • 04 Dec 2025 05:44
    Reply # 13569487 on 13546768
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Bonjour Jan

    Yes, I'm still in Australia... but I have some spare time ! I' fly back home mid-December.

    The best way to assemble Tyvex is to weld it ; but I don't have the material to do so. It might be easier for you. It musn't be too hot otherwise it schrinks. 

    I experimented "artisanal" welding on something probably similar to Politarp with a electronic welding gun. As it was too hot I added a "radiator" made out of a clothespin spring (see view). It was slow but worked sufficiently. 

    There is a great web site "voilesalternatives" in French with a part dedicated to sawing machines used for sail : 

    part of a website dedicated to the sail fabrication

    From memory (I would not trust !) the needles are something around 120. I don't have  the references for the needles and the thread. I'll post that while back home.



    6 files
  • 03 Dec 2025 12:18
    Reply # 13569038 on 13546768

    Dzień dobry Eric!

    Thank you for your reply! Your post times suggest you haven't returned from Australia yet, so thank you even more! Regarding sewing techniques, I've been digging through the technical forum, searching for terms like "needle," "sewing," etc., and I'm learning a lot of interesting information.

    As usual, Arne's ideas are invaluable. It's a shame all this knowledge isn't organized, but maybe AI will be able to handle it someday? For now, I'll try the oil drop method on the bobbin and the thicker needles you mentioned.

    Paul G's video and his photos of the new sails for Boo Baboo are also very inspiring. I wonder if he had similar problems sewing his polytarp sails ?

    Regarding gluing, the tape (3M 927) you're using seems unavailable here, and importing it from the US just to test it out wouldn't be very cost-effective. I tried gluing bluetarp with acrylic adhesive tape (like this) probably a cheaper (Chinese) equivalent of the tape you mentioned, but I didn't achieve satisfactory results. Carpet tape seems to be more effective (though probably not for long).

    I haven't started sewing new sails yet; I'm just gathering information. Junk/sailor's terminology is a real challenge, and some AI translations are suitable for comedy. Even a reverse translation isn't always enough.


    P.S. Your comment about the safety of entering harbour vs. sailing is undoubtedly very wise and only seemingly humorous, but it made me laugh.

    Best regards - Jan

    Last modified: 03 Dec 2025 16:58 | Anonymous member
  • 03 Dec 2025 04:47
    Reply # 13569006 on 13546768
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Bonjour Jan

    I didn't observe any melting while sewing Tyvex. I use big needles and the main effect is that the needle ponctures the tyvex. I don't have the feeling that there is much friction between the needle and the tyvex.

    Eric

    Last modified: 03 Dec 2025 04:48 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 02 Dec 2025 15:57
    Reply # 13568716 on 13546768

    Hi everyone!

    When sewing sails from polytarp (HDPE mat coated with LDPE), I noticed that I can't sew them too fast, otherwise the material sticks to the hot needle. I suspect a similar problem occurs with Tyvek and other tarps. Has anyone had a similar problem and knows how to solve it?

    Thanks in advance - Jan

    Last modified: 02 Dec 2025 16:38 | Anonymous member
  • 25 Nov 2025 14:35
    Reply # 13566698 on 13546768

    polytarp rulezz !

    Last modified: 25 Nov 2025 20:32 | Anonymous member
  • 06 Oct 2025 15:21
    Reply # 13549423 on 13546768

    Thanks, Eric. Let us know when you get back from the bottom of the globe. I have a few more questions, but I don't want to waste your valuable time or mess up Max's thread.

    Last modified: 06 Oct 2025 21:04 | Anonymous member
  • 06 Oct 2025 12:40
    Reply # 13549379 on 13546768
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Bonsoir

    The glu lasted for a month under rather intensive sailing some 8 hours a day I think.

    At the end the glued parts were quite fit with no tendancy to unglue...

    This glue is an industrial product, so, I suppose that it should last quite a long time.

    3M 927

    I also tried without success other way of gluing as Sicaflex or double side supermarket gluing tape... I'm afraid, I forgot to register these failures. 

    I've used massivelly grommets on Tyvex. It is not that easy because if you hammer it to hard, the grommet will poncture the Tyvex and you will have a hole in the tyvex and a grommet asside. The easy way of doing it is to have a triple seem to support the grommets. You should not use grommets with teeths because they poncture the Tyvex, just use plain cylindrical ones.

    To attache the wishbone battens at the leach i reinforced the area by a patch of tyvex glued around the Leech with 3M 927. 

    Eric

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