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Tyvek and other building wraps for experimental sails

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  • 05 Apr 2026 21:54
    Reply # 13617281 on 13617038
    Anonymous member (Administrator)
    Anonymous wrote:

    One thing to note: Tyvek does not fold onto itself like fabric, it is much stiffer and bulkier until it has been in use for months and starts to soften a bit from many, many wrinkles. I imagine it will result in a very large package when reefed.

    Bonsoir

    I agree, at start the tyvek looks more like heavy paper (in 110g/m2) than fabric.

    Quite rapidly the tyvek becomes dull a wrinkles that give an un smooth surface but it doesn't seem to impact too much on the wing performance.

    Mingming wing is a little more volunimous than the previous sail. It is normal as there are two skins but not significantly. 

    In the broad view there is one pannel reefed.

    The wrinkles are visible on the view of the sail alone.

    Eric


    2 files
  • 04 Apr 2026 17:34
    Reply # 13617038 on 13546768

    A bit late to this thread but back in the 90's when it was a pretty new product, I used Tyvek to construct tents. After talking to the company representative I wound up using a double-sided tape which my destructive testing showed that the seams wound up being stronger in shear than the material itself.
    It's been a long time but I think the 3M 927 product mentioned may well have been that tape. I will look and see if I still have any to confirm, but testing it is easy.
    IIRC, the recommendation was to let it sit for a day after taping in order to get the best bond between materials.

    One thing to note: Tyvek does not fold onto itself like fabric, it is much stiffer and bulkier until it has been in use for months and starts to soften a bit from many, many wrinkles. I imagine it will result in a very large package when reefed.

  • 19 Feb 2026 23:29
    Reply # 13600177 on 13546768

    Good luck !

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  • 19 Feb 2026 10:42
    Reply # 13599830 on 13599645
    Anonymous member (Administrator)
    Anonymous wrote:

    Thanks, Eric!

    PS: I'm curious if you're continuing your experiments with wingsails?

    Yes, I do !

    Prototype N°2 is underway. I'll modify the wishbones and the sheeting system. I should write about that !

    Eric

  • 18 Feb 2026 21:18
    Reply # 13599645 on 13546768

    Thanks, Eric!
    I've already made one (test) jiblet, using old pieces of bluetarp I had left over from sewing a previous (origami) sail. I glued the pieces together with clear tape, and after cutting out the lenses and the center piece from such patchwork, I basted everything with pieces of double-sided tape. Then I sewed it together, added a pocket, and voila! It looks like a jiblet!

    By the way: it turned out I could have four different sewing machines at my disposal, two of which sew zigzag stitches, and one of them is a vintage Singer pedal-operated machine (my favorite). I think I'll manage to sew this sail with such a fleet of machines ;).

    Regards - Jan

    PS: I'm curious if you're continuing your experiments with wingsails?

    Last modified: 18 Feb 2026 21:28 | Anonymous member
  • 18 Feb 2026 18:05
    Reply # 13599537 on 13546768
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Bonjour

    Joined, the views of the thread and needles I used for Mingming's wingsail.

    Eric

    2 files
  • 17 Feb 2026 19:48
    Reply # 13599189 on 13568716
    Anonymous wrote:

    Hi everyone!

    When sewing sails from polytarp (HDPE mat coated with LDPE), I noticed that I can't sew them too fast, otherwise the material sticks to the hot needle. I suspect a similar problem occurs with Tyvek and other tarps. Has anyone had a similar problem and knows how to solve it?

    Thanks in advance - Jan

    I think my problems stemmed from sewing fabric that had been previously held together with strong double-sided tape.  A similar phenomenon is discussed here and here.

    Arne's method (a drop of oil on the thread in the bobbin) helps mitigate this issue somewhat. Alternatively, avoid sewing through the  tape by using the narrowest possible tape.

    Last modified: 17 Feb 2026 21:47 | Anonymous member
  • 06 Dec 2025 20:34
    Reply # 13570504 on 13546768

    Thanks, Eric!
    I've already bought 5 x 4 m bluetarp for the new sail, which is actually more than I need.

    I think I'll eventually learn how to sew this bluetarp, especially since it won't be a large sail. The sail will have a maximum of five panels, each 1 sq m, so even if I damage some of the material, it won't hurt.
    My previous bluetarp sail is still in pretty good shape after two seasons, so I'll stick with that material for now. I just need to experiment with sewing. I'll lubricate the thread, sew slower, and I'm sure it will work.

    I have plenty of time until summer ;)

    Thanks again and best regards - Jan

  • 06 Dec 2025 06:17
    Reply # 13570396 on 13569953
    Anonymous member (Administrator)
    Anonymous wrote:

    Since I haven't ruled out using ripstop fabric for some panels, I think I'll have to familiarize myself with a sewing machine, especially since everyone says it's the fastest way to make a sail.

    Bonjour 

    Under my experience, mostly on Tyvex, it is much faster to glu than to sew. 

    Especially for back-wind, light wind, sails as spinnakers, racing sailsmay be glued. 

    Eric

  • 04 Dec 2025 20:47
    Reply # 13569953 on 13546768

    Dzień dobry, Eric!

    Regarding tarpaulins, there seem to be many types and different names. Just look at the website of the store where Paul G bought his tarpaulin: .
    I used the cheapest tarpaulin for my current sail, and I want to use the same one for my next sail:  .
    It cost about 10 euros. I thought it was an HDPE mat coated with LDPE, but now I'm not sure. Unfortunately, the manufacturer (from China) doesn't provide any information about the composition.

    I've also read that although tarpaulins are supposed to be identified by color (bluetarp = the weakest and probably made of polypropylene, white = stronger, etc.), Eastern manufacturers don't always follow these rules. Either way, for my needs, the one I'm using (bluetarp) will suffice for now.

    Your method (welding) looks interesting. I'm wondering if it would be possible to use, for example, an electric plastic welder with a set of staples, which (the staples) could be used similarly to the soldering tips you use  . If they get too hot, you can try using a dimmer.

    Since I haven't ruled out using ripstop fabric for some panels, I think I'll have to familiarize myself with a sewing machine, especially since everyone says it's the fastest way to make a sail.

    The sail I've used for two seasons so far (an SJR origami with bluetarp) I made quite carelessly, as I glued it together with carpet tape, and halfway through the first season, I used the sewing machine to only touch up a few spots. That's how I know the fabric stuck to the needle.

    I must admit that I want to make my next sail according to the rules posted on the forum, so I'm even more nervous about that.

    Best regards, Jan.

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