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Thoughts on spar and overall design

  • 05 Apr 2026 13:40
    Reply # 13617183 on 13617050
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Kurt

    If you don’t have hands-on experience with a JR. I suggest that your first one is a copy of a rig that works. The shown sailplan below may look unspectacular, but it works well.

    Anyway, good luck!

    Arne

    (Full size diagram under Arne's sketches, section 9)

  • 05 Apr 2026 13:13
    Reply # 13617178 on 13617050
    Anonymous member (Administrator)
    Anonymous wrote:

     I like the idea of the spar being a bit flexible, non-corrosive, non-conductive, and repairable, with a long lifespan.
    If not this one, I'll likely be using aluminum.

    Thanks for your input, thoughts, etc...


    Bonjour

    Under some specific conditions as choppy sea when tide against wind (Solen way of life) a flexible mast may be in resonence with the chop creating a very unconfortable shaking mast. It hapens with unstayed carbon masts.

    Eric

    PS : If you dream of the Jester Challenge, just have a go !!  It is a great experience !!!!

    Last modified: 05 Apr 2026 13:16 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 05 Apr 2026 04:46
    Reply # 13617154 on 13617050

    Bonsoir, Eric!

    Merci, j'apprécie! There is much to consider in your reply, and I will. Very good insights, and better, from someone who's 'been there, done that'. :)


  • 04 Apr 2026 21:11
    Reply # 13617075 on 13617050
    Anonymous member (Administrator)
    Anonymous wrote:

    As a related aside: Does anyone know the reason(s) why Roger Taylor did not use a foresail on MingMing 2? I can see that '2' has a much higher aspect than '1' did...

    Bonsoir

    Roger Taylor hates going on deck and considered that a forsail is an "un junkrig" sail that can't be reefed easily, that has to be hosted taught and may pull the unstaid must down in a scall. He didn't imagien to keep a rolled jib hoisted. He only had one on Mingming 1 because she had a small sail area and a flat sail. In light wind, especially against the wind, the forsail was improving the performances. When I bought Mingming 1 I discarded the jibs. 

    Mingming 2, is dedicated to hight latitude were there is, in summer, long periods of anticyclonic weather with very light winds. Mingming 2 sail is normally 6 pannels but a 7th may be set in very light conditions. It increases goemetrically the aspect ratio. 

    Eric

  • 04 Apr 2026 18:39
    Message # 13617050

    Hello - I am looking to convert either my Pearson Ariel or my Alberg 30. They are essentially (design wise) the same boat WRT rig and hull shape. The A30 is 5 feet longer, and displaces 9,000 lbs versus only 5200 from the Ariel, which is 25'6" LOA. My goal is to have a vessel which I can take transoceanic and come meet some of you fellas :) , maybe get involved in a Jester, and down the road, perhaps venture into high latitudes. 

    Below is a rough sketch using the Ariel drawings. Though I have done some actual design work a la 'The JR Bible' ;) , this sketch is just an eyeballed approximation for preliminary feedback on the overalls. (For instance, you can see this in the top panel shapes, that forward corner needs to be down a bit. :) )
    As much as I like, admire, and think that the SJR is eminently usable for what I plan, for this initial build I'm going more along the lines of a Southern Chinese Junk main with cambered sail (a la Arne) for a quicker and easier build.

    I do want to add a sprit, shrouds and forestay for several reasons. In a nutshell, the rigging is because: 1) I'd like to have a foresail option for storm weather tactics (as sloops, these boats heave-to beautifully), 2) possible balancing of a low aspect rig (due to mast height) , 3) extra strength/security, and 4) a way to go aloft easily.
    The sail will be sized so that the forward part can fit inside of the shrouds when let out for running, ideally for about a 80/20 or 85/15 ratio.
    As a related aside: Does anyone know the reason(s) why Roger Taylor did not use a foresail on MingMing 2? I can see that '2' has a much higher aspect than '1' did...

    I have found, for the spar, a composite (glass/polyester) lightpole which seems as if it may do the job. (Specs and info attached; I'll be using the 35' model). This one may be a bit light WRT scantlings; I'm trying to find out through research if that is the case. At only 130 pounds, it seems it might be. That said, looking online everything I've read is that pound for pound, composite poles are stronger than aluminum, so that weight may not be telling the whole tale. I can get it for a great price, so am hoping it will work. I like the idea of the spar being a bit flexible, non-corrosive, non-conductive, and repairable, with a long lifespan.
    If not this one, I'll likely be using aluminum.

    Thanks for your input, thoughts, etc...


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