CARAVELINA - New JR scow minicruiser

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  • 09 Oct 2021 08:54
    Reply # 11222693 on 11204062
    Anonymous wrote:

    Hi Kris,

    Your new boat looks great!

    I like the 'external' blocks of wood that you used to mount the threaded rods to the tabernacle. I had considered doing something similar. Was this part of the plans, or was this your personal touch?

    Scott.

    Scott, original plans are much simpler regarding masts. Wooden box-section wooden glued masts inserted from the top to the type of gully.  Since I want this boat to be an easy trailer-sailer  I decided on aluminum lamp posts and tabernacles. I planned based on what I could find in this JRA site adding some ideas of my own. In 90% I based on Annie Hill description and Oryx's tabernacles. I bought the idea of an external "hinge". The construction of mine is tricky, but it WORKS! The axe rod is only M8mm, as it works only when collapsing the mast. In the tabernacle there are pieces of adequate size pipe epoxied in. Other, holding, rods are M10.
    4 files
  • 08 Oct 2021 19:51
    Reply # 11204062 on 7917477

    Hi Kris,

    Your new boat looks great!

    I like the 'external' blocks of wood that you used to mount the threaded rods to the tabernacle. I had considered doing something similar. Was this part of the plans, or was this your personal touch?

    Scott.

  • 07 Oct 2021 21:13
    Reply # 11149131 on 11146509
    Kris wrote:

    My ANNA LUCJA 2 ( CARABELA 650) is finally out of the shop and tabernacles are stepped. I would love to try her sailing before winter. 

    Congratulations on getting the boat completed to this stage. We look forward to seeing photos of the boat in the water, and hearing how your new rig works out. But the hard work is done and this is the fun part.
  • 07 Oct 2021 06:29
    Reply # 11146509 on 7917477

    My ANNA LUCJA 2 ( CARABELA 650) is finally out of the shop and tabernacles are stepped. I would love to try her sailing before winter. 

    4 files
  • 10 Feb 2021 10:36
    Reply # 10076034 on 7917477

    I can't think of a reason to make the two sails with different camber, but I can think of practical reasons to keep them the same.

    The after sail needs to be sheeted in more, but I don't think that has any connection with the amount of camber. 

  • 08 Feb 2021 22:57
    Reply # 10070418 on 7917477

    The Split Wind Vane is almost finished. Now, about the sails, I am sewing. Two almost the same 15 sm, AR 2,5, hinged battens sails to make my Anna Lucja 2 the junk schooner. 

    Question is: for such a schooner both sails should have same camber, or one should be flatter? If so - which one, foresail or the main?

  • 19 Jan 2021 15:44
    Reply # 9877566 on 7917477

    The constraints are:

    1. The vane linkage cords must first run down to the first turning point on the axis of vertical rotation of the vane turret, so that they describe a conical shape as the turret rotates, thus not changing in length.
    2. They must run more or less athwartships from the second turning points to the little "tiller" on the servo carrier.

    In between the two turning points, there is freedom. On Tystie, there is an extra turning point as the cords come down from the vane (mounted on the pushpit) to the first turning blocks in the centre of the davits crossbeam, then at an angle to second turning blocks at the top of the transom, then down the transom to the third turning blocks on the transom, then athwartships to the servo.

    The red cords can just be made out in this photo [taken as we were perched on top of an uncharted rock in a remote lagoon in BC, Canada!].

    1 file
  • 19 Jan 2021 13:19
    Reply # 9876882 on 7917477

    This has now caught my eye, too. I love the "original" design, but I might convert my system to this split version in order to make some things easier in real life. This would probably also help to provide clean air for the wind vane.

    Is there a max distance between the wind vane/turret and the pendulum? I have a solar panel arc on the pulpit, and I might put the vane back on it like I once did.

    Last modified: 19 Jan 2021 13:22 | Anonymous member
  • 18 Jan 2021 08:02
    Reply # 9872155 on 7917477

    That's right. I drilled two 6mm holes inwards through the groove, either side of the turret support, and hollowed out the underside of the disc to make room for the knots.

    That's not the only way of doing it, though. The cords have to be secured in that position, but maybe you can see a way you like better. 

    Last modified: 18 Jan 2021 09:01 | Anonymous member
  • 17 Jan 2021 22:24
    Reply # 9871549 on 7917477

    Thank you, David. You have made the complete set of design drawings overnight, great job.

    I started making the wind vane with the vain assembly. The groove in the disc is not the all the way around?

    In the place of attachment of the slanting turret support in the disc it enters the groove. Is this an attachment point of the course control cord?

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