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Van de Stadt 36 Seal - JR conversion

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  • 15 May 2026 16:02
    Reply # 13632229 on 9338306
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    While I was drawing the sailplans below, David T produced a posting, suggesting limiting the SA to 64sqm
    David has a good point, so I dug out another Johanna 60 master sailplan, this one with AR=2.08. When scaling it to B=6.20m, the area landed on 64.0sqm.

    I think these designs with a mast balance of  25%,  are better than my first ones (from 2020):

    • ·         The mast is now moved further away from the bow.
    • ·         The original hatch can be kept as before.
    • ·         The mast can be made lower
    • ·         The CE sits closer to the JR mast, and when running before, it will sit well within maximum beam of the boat. Easy steering downwind.
    • ·         As positioned here, with a mast balance of 25%, there is room for moving the sail a little forward or aft, to get the steering balance just right.

    To make it as offshore capable as possible I would...

    • ·         ..tie the topping lifts only 2/3 aft on the boom, and...
    • ·         fit a thin, one-meter long extension to the yard’s top, and and...
    • ·         ..fit a FUP; a fan-up preventer, and...
    • ·         ..use a separate upper and lower sheet, as David suggests
    • ·         .. and  -  possibly  -  fit batten downhauls.

    YHP, THP and HK-parrels are already standard on my Johanna style sails.

    Cheers,
    Arne

    (full size diagram in Arne's sketches, section 9 )

  • 15 May 2026 12:21
    Reply # 13632130 on 9338306
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Now I had a new go, this time with a mast balance increased to 25%, after learning from the two Pauls (Thompson in NZ. and Schnabel in Germaney).

    In haste, more text later,

    Arne


    (Full size diagrams in Arne's sketches, section 9)

  • 15 May 2026 10:40
    Reply # 13632123 on 9338306

    Looking at https://sailboatdata.com/sailboat/seal-36/ I see that the pointy-top mast is 15.9m above LWL. With an untapered mast section and with the weight of forestay, backstay and cap shrouds added, I’d suggest that its windage and height of CG is always going to be greater than that of any JR mast, whatever the construction or material. My experience with Tystie, not quite as large as the Seal but with shoal draft and limited stability, leads me to think that excessive mast height with any form of JR is not a serious concern. In fact - more is better, as it permits a higher AR with shorter battens and yard to be used, and I came to the view that this was the best way to go, in designing a large rig. 

    The basic-triangle sail area of the Seal is quoted as being 58.27 sq m. Add 10% and we get 64 sq m, which I would consider to be quite enough for an offshore cruising boat of this displacement. An SJR of 64 sq m with battens somewhere between 5m and 6m would be practicable and manageable. I’d suggest adding one more batten to the Amiina mk 2 planform, and using upper and lower sheets, ie, three battens for each sheet. Further, I agree with Slieve that spanning the SJR-style downhauls isn't necessary or perhaps practicable in this size of sail.

    I do think that more control over the position of the boom than is provided by the usual form of SJR downhaul may well be desirable in a seaway. When scaling up the SJR to the maximum practical size for offshore cruising, there just might be a need to look beyond the simplicity of the small inshore SJR, well proven though that undoubtedly is. 

    Last modified: 15 May 2026 10:47 | Anonymous member
  • 15 May 2026 09:38
    Reply # 13632113 on 9338306

    Just a thought Graeme, but does the bottom batten have to be at least half the panel width above the batten downhaul turning block, and do you need a turning block at deck level? Poppy didn’t have a turning block.

    On Poppy the bolts through the deck that held the top and bottom parts of the partners together had steel rings welded on top and the downhauls just went through the rings, which were about 40mm inside diameter and probably 10mm diameter rod. As the downhauls were ever only ‘tug’ tight I see no reason why the two sides of the span could not go through the ring together with the ‘block’ which was only a small nylon thimble.

    Equally, the downhauls don’t need to be spanned, and as the latest rigs have fewer panels and the downhauls were small diameter soft line then a couple of lines through each to 2 or 3 rings should not be a problem. When taking a reef they all come down by the same amount so could all be pulled ‘tug’ tight as a bundle. The downhaul for the lowest batten does not need to be adjustable and can be tied off at the foot of the mast.

    If I remember correctly the only blocks on Poppy were on the halyard and the bottom sheet block which was the old sheet block from the Bermudian rig. It really was a low stress rig.

    As I say, just a thought.

    Thomas, I have never been happy with finding the CoA of a Bermudian rig with more than one headsails so suggest you get expert advice from those who know. You mention 80 sq.m sail area, but on Poppy I only used full main and No.2 headsail area and found it to be adequate, ghosting along at 2 kts in 4 kts of wind in any direction so wonder just what sail area you would really need.

    By the way, Paul Gardham seems very happy with his 2 SJRs on his Freedom 33. Like Graeme he is a fan of the low stress rig.

    Cheers, Slieve.


  • 15 May 2026 08:27
    Reply # 13632106 on 9338306
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Yes, the rule of thumb these days seems to be to have the midpoint of the boom and battens of a junk rig matched to the CE of the original bermudan rig. ie to assume that the CE of both rigs will coincide on tha same vertical line. That puts your current proposed mast position about right, to a few inches, for a 33% balance sail, I would say, though you should draw it accurately and get a second opinion.

    Here is a little spiel on mast height.

    For a normal junk rig with soft batten parrels (that means currently nearly all junk rigs) there are some additional horizontal forces necessary on the sail and battens, to keep the rig from swinging forward. This is why other extra running and standing parrels are often added, to keep the sail draping nicely without severe creases etc. If there is a harmony between the mast-balance and the yard angle, on most junk sails, these forces are kept to a minimum.  As a general rule, we can say that high yard-angle goes best with low mast-balance, and low yard-angle is in harmony with high balance. This is one reason why the Amiina SJR has a relatively low yard angle. The sail is very well designed and harmonised, and horizontal forces on this sail are quite low, and pretty much taken care of by the running parrel downhauls (a feature of that particular design) - no other parrels being necessary (at least on my little boat).

    Paul Th has an excellent diagram which demonstrates the relationship between yard angle and mast balance (which assumes a fixed mast height and a fixed halyard sling point close to the centre of the yard).

    Arne has analysed the problem in another way, by considering the angle between the halyard and the mast when the sail is fully hoisted. (He refers to it as “halyard angle”). The halyard is normally attached to about the midpoint of the yard. The lower the halyard angle, the more vertically it pulls and the less are the horizontal forces required to counteract the halyard’s forward pull, to make the sail drape nicely – a better behaved rig. A correct relationship between yard angle and mast-balance  amounts to the smallest halyard angle, for a given mast height.

    Properly designed, a low balance/high yard-angle sail does not need to have a mast as high as the peak of the sail, as you will see in all of Arne’s drawings,

    Another way of reducing halyard angle is just to increase the height of the mast, but that can mean using one fault to overcome another.

    However, there is another reason why the mast must have sufficient height. Even though the halyard angle is kept to a minimum, when the sail is hoisted to its highest, the halyard still has some angle away from the mast, which means that it has a horizontal component which does not help, and a vertical component which is less than the pull on the halyard. What this means is, if the halyard angle is too high, the effort involved in hoisting the last metre or so of the sail becomes quite great.

    In the case of a SJR sail, that means two constraints. For the Amiina planform, with its low yard angle, the mast height must not be lower than the peak of the yard, in fact a little higher is desirable. The other constraint is that the Amiina sail is designed for and works well with running parrel-downhauls. But these lines are spanned so that each span controls two battens. The lowest batten (be it the boom, or some other batten when the sail is reefed), must be sufficiently clear of the deck if there is to be enough room for the span. If the mast is stepped forward of a cabin top, this presents little trouble. But if the mast is standing on a flush deck or over a deckhouse, then the height of the boom above the turning block for the parrel downhaul (ie the deck) must be at least  just a little more than 50% of the distance between battens. That is a further constraint on the height of the mast, for a given sail area. You need to think about these things when designing a SJR – minimum height of boom above the parrel-downhaul turning blocks, and minimum height of masthead.

    You can make some scale drawings and you will find that for a given height of mast, a low balance sail can be made to have a little more sail area than a high balance SJR. Or, conversely, for a given sail area, the SJR will require a slightly taller mast.

    Here is another "eyeball" comparison, but you can see where the mast height is, in relation to the original bermudan mast height, and compare in each of these two sails

    The SJR is a powerful sail and Slieve will advise (correctly I think) that there is no reason to pursue an excessively large sail area. Also, within reason, a slightly taller mast is not such a disadvantage as may appear (apart from a bit of extra windage when the sail is reefed.) The height of the centre of gravity of the mast, sail and battens is not increased all that much by a bit of extra topmast, and the effect on initial stability is next to zero. When the boat is heeled to a great angle, then the taller mast will start to show some effect on righting moment. Then you will be glad you have a junk rig anyway, because it is so easy to reef.

    You just need to do some drawings and do some calculations to see that we are not talking about a serious disadvantage. Unless the boat happens to be very tender under its original sail area, then it is just one of those things we tend to over-think. I hadn’t thought about that when I made the rough sketch, and didn’t really consider sail area, it was just eyeball. When drawn properly to scale, a SJR rig with a comparable sail area usually comes out with a mast about the same height as the original Bermudan mast, and a Johanna type, of moderate aspect ratio, usually comes out with a mast a bit less than the original Bermudan mast. If you are worried about it, you might like to consider a hybrid mast, with the top, say 25 – 30% made from carbon fibre. In practice I have not heard of any SJR which suffers from too high a mast (though I know of one or two which have masts a bit too short).

    Obviously, everything within reason. These are just things to think about, and maybe to discuss with people like Slieve or Arne, and there are others, who have a wealth of practical experience.



    Last modified: 15 May 2026 10:19 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 15 May 2026 04:17
    Reply # 13632083 on 9338306

    Thanks Graeme for the great reply.

    I had looked at that drawing and couldn't work out why the CE of the proposed sloop sail had been placed there. I don't know who did the drawing, it might have been the gentleman who was looking into converting his Van de Stadt Seal at the start of this thread.

    It seems as if the CE of the original rig is just forward of the original mast. The boat seemed balanced with its original rig so maybe as you say we can just place of new rig CE over the old rig CE.

    A mast location just aft of the forward bulkhead that divides the forepeak and saloon is the most ideal. The mast partner would benefit from having a bulkhead right next to it too I imagine. If the mast moves forward its right in the main berth. And yes as you say, if its rigged with two masts then I think a high balanced split rig wouldn't work.

    The higher mast to fit the split just sail area is a little worrying as I think a tall mast for a sloop rig will already be very heavy. It might not matter and I may be wrong but just a thought.

  • 15 May 2026 03:07
    Reply # 13632061 on 9338306
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Personally, I have a strong preference for high balance, and I like my 33% balance SJR very much, but there are some theoretical matters which need to be considered. 

    Here is a theoretical answer, referring (for simplicity) to your single mast proposed rig.

    (I suspect you might know all this already, but for the record, here goes):

    The question of split junk rig, or non-split rig. for a single mast rig, depends on where you intend to place the mast. SJR usually only makes sense if your sail is intended to have high balance, ideally 33%.  Anything much less than this and you are probably better off with an unsplit sail. 

    If the boat sailed well (satisfactory helm balance) with the original rig, then a good starting point, if possible, would be a scale drawing showing the original sail plan, or at least the position of the geometric centre (CE) of the original sail plan. You can then draw your proposed junk sail with its geometric centre (CE) positioned over the same vertical line. (Usually the mid point of the boom establishes this vertical line through the junk sail CE, with sufficient accuracy.

    After that, your desired mast balance for the sail will determine the position of the mast.

    Or, conversely, your desired mast position will determine the amount of balance you are going to end up with.

    The SJR, with its higher balance, will mean a mast placed a little further aft than it would be for a lower balance sail such as the Hasler McLeod sail you have drawn.

    [Is the "present CE" you show on your drawing, the CE of the original rig? If so, then the vertical line through the midpoint of the boom you show on your junk sail drawing should align with this point. In other words, I think your your proposed sail plan may be placed too far aft.]

    [If the mast position you show on your drawing is where it has to be, because of internal accommodation requirements, then it follows that your sail will need to have high balance, in which case SJR may be your best choice. If you were prepared to have the mast further forward, then your sail would need a lower balance, and a contiguous (unsplit sail) will make more sense.]

    Assuming the CE you have drawn is the CE of the original rig, this is what I think a SJR would look like. (This is Slieve's well-proven Amiina Mk2 sail). 

    This is an approximate drawing only, I don't claim to be a rig designer, but it looks to me as though a 33% balance SJR would suit your chosen mast position very well. Perhaps you should check with Slieve. (Note, you will need a slightly taller mast for a given sail area, with this type of sail).

    My opinion is, if you decide to go for an unsplit sail, such as one of Arne's Johanna sails, or a HM sail, then you are going to have somewhat lower balance, and will need to move the mast further forward than shown on your proposed drawing. Perhaps you should check that with Arne. (Also, the lower balance/higher yard-angle sail would allow a slightly shorter mast for a given sail area, than for a high balance/low yard angle SJR sail).

    My final thought is, if you decide on schooner rig such as you have drawn, then the same principle of matching CEs applies - and also, in that case, I see no point in SJR and in any case I would urge you to consult with Arne or others who have experience designing junk rigs.

    Last modified: 15 May 2026 03:49 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 14 May 2026 22:02
    Reply # 13631948 on 9338306

    Hello,

    I'm now the owner of the Van de Stadt Seal 'Ms Murphy' based in Northland New Zealand, for the second time, having just recently bought it back from the guy I sold it to. She is in a sorry state but slowly coming back to the boat she used to be.

    One element of her lack of care means the rig is in a sorry state. She will need a new main sail, new standing and running rigging and a few other bits and pieces. Id much rather have a junk rigged boat, so Id like to look into the option for ditching the old pointy rig and put a junk on her.

    As mentioned in this thread she needs about 75-80m2 of sail to match the old rig. For the sake of building and simplicity Id prefer a sloop rig but understand this will be a large sail. Im also interested in using a split junk rig as I find the design appealing and it should put the single mast in a convenient place.

    Can anyone point me in the right direction to start seeing if this is possible. I imagined a steel mast, mainly as the boat is steel but understand that might be a heavy option. 

    We intend to take her offshore up to the Islands in two years, maybe making her the first split rig to go offshore which would be interesting. I also have around 6-9months of thinking time before I can start the refit and rerig as I need to finish house projects first. The document attached is from this thread when the other Seal owner was looking into a conversion and is drawn with a cambered panel sail.

    Keen for any help with where to get started.

    Thank you!

    2 files
  • 19 Nov 2020 19:23
    Reply # 9376044 on 9338306
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Eero.

    now I had a look at that calculation tool, made by Oscar Fröberg.

    When choosing mast material as Norwegian Spruce, its density is given as 0.43.
    Then I look at your .xls file where you say the density of spruce is 0.63 (630 kg/m3). That makes a whole lot of difference:
    If you multiply your found weight of 298kg with 0.43/0.63, the mast will come out with

    Wm = 298kg x 0.43 : 0.63 = 203kg.

    The rule of fancy algorithms is: “Put garbage in and you will get garbage out”.

    In my world we reckon the density of dry spruce to be around 0.52, give or take  2%.
    If the other algorithms are ok and the density is 0.52, then the weight should come out at

    Wm = 298 x 0.52 : 0.63 =246kg.

    That would only add about 2.5% to the boat’s displacement, so should be good.

    Arne

    PS: I also note that the Sigma of spruce is set to 72MPa. In my calculations I have used the much more modest 45MPa. Maybe I am too pessimistic...


  • 19 Nov 2020 17:23
    Reply # 9375812 on 9374993
    Anonymous wrote:

    according to the junk rig calculation tool of oscar froberg a steel mast for 16300kpm could be a 300/6mm tube – a bit heavy…

    ueli

    Nice tool!

    With this tool i would estimate the weight of spruce mast roughly to 200 kg. 

    I wonder?? I have tried to estimate it and I am always around 300 kg. Attached.


    1 file
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