Anonymous wrote:

James,
the rig I drew up for you yesterday is in my view already an improvement over my former boats like Johanna and Ingeborg  -  I mean when offshore travelling is on the menu. The shorter cord/waterline ratio and better angle clearance to the sea, with the sail squared out, would let it travel quite safely offshore.

However, since the word ‘circumnavigation’ popped up here, I think there is room for improvements.

This time I have fitted an almost identical sail, but with a 65° yard. This little change (and by keeping the same mast) gives more room for shifting the sail both forward and aft. It also lets one install running Tack Parrel (TP) and thus tilt the lower end well forward (5° in this case). I know that some has found this to be a useful measure to ease steering downwind, but I hope the two Davids; Tyler and Thatcher will share a bit of their personal experience with this method. Anyway, as shown on the diagram to the right, The CE of the tilted sail has moved ‘inside the rail’, so steering should be easy.

You will notice that I have also plonked on a new rudder onto the transom. This is probably an overkill for this boat. Better save that space for a servo pendulum gear.

Arne

 

Yes I was thinking about using Cape Horn steering gear on the Transom. So Arne, what method did you use for mast location, did you go a percentage from the original. Im not sure the terminology, a large main with a smaller jib but both junk rigged, like a ketch but with the smaller sail forward. So I keep thinking about building a mast with the birdmouth method, and I think about all the chances for something to not bond correctly. Which makes me think about making a solid mast (out of a number of strips bonded together. This seems stronger to me, but then all that weight up high, on a fairly tender boat. I thought maybe the ketch or whatever it is would be better as the canter would be lower....but more weight overall. I love the look of two masts, but whatever would work best. I could also see a boxed style mast being pretty easy to build. That would be hollow. I just have it stuck in my head tall wooden mast needs to be the birdsmouth style which i dread trying to build..lol.

James,
the rig I drew up for you yesterday is in my view already an improvement over my former boats like Johanna and Ingeborg  -  I mean when offshore travelling is on the menu. The shorter cord/waterline ratio and better angle clearance to the sea, with the sail squared out, would let it travel quite safely offshore.

However, since the word ‘circumnavigation’ popped up here, I think there is room for improvements.

This time I have fitted an almost identical sail, but with a 65° yard. This little change (and by keeping the same mast) gives more room for shifting the sail both forward and aft. It also lets one install running Tack Parrel (TP) and thus tilt the lower end well forward (5° in this case). I know that some has found this to be a useful measure to ease steering downwind, but I hope the two Davids; Tyler and Thatcher will share a bit of their personal experience with this method. Anyway, as shown on the diagram to the right, The CE of the tilted sail has moved ‘inside the rail’, so steering should be easy.

You will notice that I have also plonked on a new rudder onto the transom. This is probably an overkill for this boat. Better save that space for a servo pendulum gear.

Arne

James,

Now I have had a new go on drawing a JR for your boat. I decided to try a sloop rig once more, but now I would make use of my experience with my Ingeborg.

Since your boat appears to be quite sturdy, I made the sail rather taller than I use to, but with the chord of the sail shorter compared to the waterline. The CE is put in the same position as that of the original rig. In case she turns out to have a little lee helm when close-hauled (which I doubt), there will be ample room for shifting the sail aft on the mast. The sail area to disp. ratio is 'only' 16.2. Since you are thinking of rigging with a wooden mast (25cm hollow spruce would do), I don’t recommend a taller rig.

There is another way of increasing the sail area and that is to reduce the yard angle with 5 or 10°, which would let one increase the sail’s batten length and mast balance, while keeping the CE in the same position.

However, have a look at this one first.

Arne

Thanks guys, I will continue to look into it then. I like the Cape Dory a lot, it's a nice sturdy boat and you're right, it does have some decent ballast. I'm going to try to get the boat back in the water as soon as possible, so I'll do all the figures, then put the boat back in with it's regular sloop rig, then when all the junk masts sails etc are done I'll haul out and do the switch...I'm afraid to do it all at once as I could end up with just a project I never finished. But I will take some pics of the progress and share them when Im done. 

Thanks 

I rigged the 28ft Ivory Gull as a schooner, but that was mainly because I had two spare masts looking for a job to do. She would have had better windward performance with a single sail, I think, but she cruised successfully around Ireland and Scotland, and is still rigged that way. 

Schooner masts tend to be as tall as a single mast would be, as the AR is necessarily high to get enough area within a short LOA. It can be done, though.