I pulled the berth apart, and removed the insulation from under the cushions and was surprised by a storage hatch to the bilge (and anchor) I forgot about. That will be where the mast lives. Somewhere in here. I sure got lucky with that even level area to mount the step!

Here are the measurements: About 47-48 in of burry from ballast to deck. I am not quite sure how thick the insulation and paneling are in the area.

The center of the cuby is 61 in from the center of the bermuda mast. 

The cubby is 19 x 19 in

I know the center of the bermudian rig mast is exactly 25 in from the center of the hatch. 

The 40 ft flag pole is actually 44ft overall, and I am not opposed to building a trunk attached to the keel to step the mast into to gain a bit of extra height above the partners. since the mast would be on the flat foredeck area, there is 47-48 in of burry depending on the thickness of insulation in the area.

If I build a trunk that is anchored to the ballast , I can bolt the mast into the trunk 48 in below the partners. I would build the trunk from the ballast up to the deck. I would then have a 42 ft above the deck, or 12.8016 meters. Could this work or do I need more bury?

I think the 25 hp engine is a perfect match for this boat. With a following sea it will push the boat at hull speed with around 1/4 - 1/2 throttle, and can maintain hull speed with an opposing current of 6 knots at around 3/4 - 5/8 throttle.  Anything less powerful I would call an auxiliary or marina engine, and would not depend on it in a strong current. 

The engine is on a lift (I don't know who makes it) but it runs off of an electric actuator after closer inspection. It seems to do the trick, but I plan to sell it and install a manual one for reliability reasons. I could picture it getting stuck in the up position with no recourse. It also has a hydraulic steering ability to turn the engine. I have only used it once after over tightening  my mechanical lines from the pilot house to the rudder, and caused a bind. It is ok,  but you have no idea at all where the motor is pointed unless you have someone watching it telling you how to steer with it. Maybe it works better underway going forward. I think it is mostly more hassle than it is worth, and plan to lock the mount in one position, and install the hydraulic wheel to the rudder as a backup incase my mechanical lines sever again. It is one of the issues I have been fighting since I have bought the boat. I will have to redesign how the mechanical system works as is. I love the feel of the feedback, and knowing how the rudder is positioned, but is useless in heavy weather, as the stock system has too much strain on the rudder, and not enough strength in the cables. 

The steering on my boat is super old school. The rear wheel attached to the rudder post with a gnarly huge cast bronze rack and pinion gear. I love it, it's bullet proof. The cabin house wheel has a bronze sprocket attached on the rear, a crossed piece of chain rides on the gear, and is attached to some cables.  I need to work on that part of the equation. I think I need to install larger pulleys for the route to the rudder and larger cable, aswell as a few metal oil permeated bushings where the cable runs through holes drilled in wood, and has sawn grooves into while under stress. I would love to figure out a way to use mechanical auto clutch or brake cable in housing with a fair route. I would just keep the housings well oiled, and eliminate any pulleys or rub.

 

Arne Kverneland wrote:

David Tyler wrote: ... and the available mast length is only 12.2m. We need a bury of more than 1m, so unfortunately, the AR is going to have to be reduced. It's a pity, though.

David, there is still hope, it seems.

Somewhere down below here, James indicated that the 40' (12.19m) was the above ground height, and that there were 4' more below ground...

Arne

Ah, I'd missed that. Thanks Arne. Then I go with your drawing - or perhaps a Weaverbird sail at 50 sq m, which would put the mast somewhat further aft, and makes the Chord/DWL ratio more to my liking at 0.74.

Arne Kverneland wrote:

David Tyler wrote:

Arne, I just tried Weaverbird's sail (AR = 2.28) scaled up to 50 sq m, and it would take a mast with LAP = 12m to fit it to Sea Star. I doubt whether a sail of AR = 2.1 is going to fit onto a 40ft mast, so hence my suggestion that James use Marie G's sailplan.

David

it is just that the 50sqm sailplan I suggested already had an AR of 2.10, setting on a mast with LAP=11.2m.

... and the available mast length is only 12.2m. We need a bury of more than 1m, so unfortunately, the AR is going to have to be reduced. It's a pity, though.

Arne, I just tried Weaverbird's sail (AR = 2.28) scaled up to 50 sq m, and it would take a mast with LAP = 12m to fit it to Sea Star. I doubt whether a sail of AR = 2.1 is going to fit onto a 40ft mast, so hence my suggestion that James use Marie G's sailplan.

James, I think that since this is your first JR and you're on the learning curve, it would be as well to stick to the mainstream, and not to do anything that hasn't been done before. So I think that it would be a good plan to adopt Marie G's sailplan as it is (though it might be a tight fit on a 40ft mast, I think it will be OK). 

Your choice of a light nylon spinnaker cloth is questionable. It has been used for JR racing sails, aiming for least weight aloft, but it wouldn't be my first choice for a heavy "cruising home" kind of a boat. My experience has been that the cloth starts to break down near the leech of the lower two panels, as a result of there being little or no tension here so that the leech is inclined to flap and flutter more than the rest of the sail. Weight matters. A heavier cloth flutters more slowly. Even with the 8 - 9oz/sq yd cloth that I would use for a 54 sq m sail (sorry, mixing imperial/metric units again!) I would put a wide doubler up the leech, for longevity. I wouldn't know what to recommend to make a light nylon sail last a long time in the cruising environment, as opposed to a racing round the cans environment. Based where you are, near Seattle, I suggest that Weathermax 80 cloth and battens of 2in x 1/16in 6061T6 al. alloy should be easy to get hold of.