Orion, International Folkboat.

  • 09 Jul 2018 21:30
    Reply # 6367439 on 6141347

    First shot from the outside. 

    1 file
  • 09 Jul 2018 15:47
    Reply # 6366674 on 6141347
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    I don't claim to know that much on mechanics. However, instead of riveting stuff to the boom, I rather use lashings, as you do. To make sure they will never move out of position, I would make  a stop collar or ridge of some sort on the tube. This could consist of a number of rounds tape, or a glass tape set in glue of some sort. Duct tape, sports tape or wide masking tape (painted over) will hold well enough. I even prefer hose-clamps to drilling holes in the tubes.

    I know, I know; aeroplanes are being riveted together, but aeroplane manufakturers  are in another league when it comes to knowing where and how to rivet.

    I am less afraid of drilling holes in the booms and battens at their ends.


    Last modified: 09 Jul 2018 15:49 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 09 Jul 2018 14:09
    Reply # 6366496 on 6141347

    Tiller brake.... check

    The running topping lifts and mast lift run through shackles laced to the boom. 

    Now that I'm decided on where the lifts are to be, I'm thinking of a more neat and permanent solution. The idea is to use 3 or 4 lacing eyes riveted to the boom (50/2 mm). 

    Am I right in assuming that these few rivets won't weaken the boom too much?

  • 05 Jul 2018 19:34
    Reply # 6362047 on 6141347

    Hi Arne


    The bungee is the quick version of your tiller lock. Next project.

    The wind indicator will have to wait. There is a tricolor/anchor lantern  up there

    In the meantime, I'm a happy camper 


    Last modified: 07 Jul 2018 05:05 | Anonymous member
  • 05 Jul 2018 19:22
    Reply # 6362005 on 6141347
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    This sounds good, Frederik.

    With Orion’s batten length of B=4.70m instead of Ingeborg’s B=4.90m, and a balance of around 15%, should give you a lead of over 15% of the waterline. The lead of Ingeborg’s rig is 13%, which is on the low side, but still acceptable.

    I suggest you take a closer look at Ingeborg’s tiller lock.


    PS: This wind indicator will help you finding the right heading when sailing close-hauled. I now tack within 90°, after I put it in use. Just drop that crow deflector string  -  the
    ribbon(s) will eventually get caught by it...


    Last modified: 05 Jul 2018 20:14 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 05 Jul 2018 16:13
    Reply # 6361627 on 6141347

    The last few weeks of tweaking the "Johanna" sheet system and setting up running topping lifts, mastlift and tackline have payed off well. Taking the first reef halfway up. The running tackline works great in tightening the luff.  The sail is now set with a bit more balance, ca. 15%. Quite easy on the helm. Semi self steering with a bungee chord. Telltales on the leech very helpfull in learning the new rig. 

    Been out on a mini trip around the island of Møn the last three days in 0-20 knot winds and Orion sails very well on all points. Tacking up narrowish channels with confidence. 100 degrees on the compass with good speed. All other points... well, what can i say... fast & very easy. 

    2 files
    Last modified: 05 Jul 2018 19:35 | Anonymous member
  • 18 May 2018 19:06
    Reply # 6242743 on 6141347
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Robert, yes, my experience is that the need for HK parrels drops with rising AR. Remember, the sails in Hong Kong were extreme cases of Low AR.


  • 18 May 2018 17:53
    Reply # 6242630 on 6240248
    Deleted user
    Frederik Roelf Elslo wrote:First impressions. Still a lot to learn and tuning to do
    I didn't see hong kong parrels in the pics but the sail/panels set very nicely. Is this due to the higher aspect ratio?

    robert self

  • 17 May 2018 22:25
    Reply # 6240544 on 6141347
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    This sounds promising, Frederik.

    The yard may drop a bit in the aft end when lowering the sail, but if it falls beyond horizontal, I would be worried. The quick trick if it does so is to haul on the THP.

    The camber and general shape of the panels looks good. I would, however add telltails at the leech of each panel to avoid over-sheeting the sail and to ensure that the twist is right ( with correct twist, all the telltails indicate separation at almost the same time). I would also fit a yard extension stick on the yard and add a burgee/telltale on that one too.

    Keep up the good work!



  • 17 May 2018 19:14
    Reply # 6240248 on 6141347
    First impressions. Still a lot to learn and tuning to do

    Nice on the helm, but will experiment with some more sail forward of the mast. 

    THP on yard only makes the 28 cm luff of panel 1 buckle.  Will try some other arrangement.

    YHP not doing much most of the time  

    The yard does “fall” a bit aft when lowering sail. Slingpoint dead center between the blocks on the yard. When reefing the battens stack fine.

    With 45 cm extra luff, the tack sits low, but I can still more or less see under the boom. 

    Thinking of rigging running topping lifts, mast lift and tack line, so as to take the first reef upwards.

    Tacking and gybing. Easy, smooth. Sheetpoint of pushpit. (For now).

    Have not measured camber yet.

    This sail is not as designed by Arne. All the extra luff. Different top three panels...In my eyes it looks more like a Peregrine kind of sail. Not what I expected. But now that’s what I have, I will try to make it work.

    We had a nice coffee break with the sheets out, just sitting there nice and quiet with 10 knots of wind on the beam.  When we were done, I hauled in the sheet and we were doing 6 knots in 10 seconds.....

    Last modified: 17 May 2018 19:30 | Anonymous member
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