Orion, International Folkboat.

  • 17 May 2018 16:25
    Reply # 6239545 on 6141347
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Looking good. I notice that the sail is set with moderate balance, but with 20cm shorter battens than on my Ingeborg, she should still balance fairly well on the helm. 

    One thing I have thought of is to move the topping lifts about 50cm forward on the boom to get more clearance for the yard when deeply reefed. On your boat that would be very easy, now before you fit the sail catchers and sail cover. On Ingeborg, that job would mean recutting the sail cover and maybe moving the sail catchers as well, so I will probably not bother, but rather rely on my FUP and yard extension stick.


    PS: Any sign of the yard dropping at the aft end when lowering the sail? On the rather tall (in my context) sail with AR=2.0, you should get away without that problem, even with the slingpoint moved forward to the middle of the yard.

    Last modified: 19 May 2018 11:33 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 17 May 2018 14:55
    Reply # 6239354 on 6141347

    The smile says it all!

    Just a little more of a pull back on the throat, and then it will look really good.

  • 17 May 2018 14:49
    Reply # 6239347 on 6141347

    Now I know....

    First ruff & ready sail with “kinøjser” rig.

    An epiphany.

    5 files
  • 14 May 2018 12:44
    Reply # 6157638 on 6141347


    Hmmm ja...

    I’m in contact with Tuchwerkstatt and try to figure out why the sail is so different from your drawing.

    Had a quick look at the sail this morning after adjustment of the THP only working at the yard. Looks a lot better now, but still not much drift left with the sail 50 cm over the deck at mast position.

    I’ll see if  I can get away with moving the halyard blocks on the yard further forward and set the sail with 40 cm boom-deck

    I’ll take a measurement of the total luff length tomorrow 

    2 files
    Last modified: 14 May 2018 13:00 | Anonymous member
  • 14 May 2018 09:48
    Reply # 6153718 on 6141347
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    This appears not to be an uncommon problem. I had a local sailmaker sew a new sail for my Johanna, back in 2002. He screwed up completely and had to do it all over again. It surprises me that the Tuchwerkstatt makes such errors, though, since Sebastian has made so many junk sails. Could the job have been left to an apprentice without sufficient supervision?

    Anyway, this is why I encourage people to make their own sails, and that is why I still ‘sell’ the simple barrel cut method: This method lowers the step from the armchair to the sewing machine.

     I claim that anyone who has never ‘set foot in’ a sewing machine can gain the needed skills in two days, with a bit help. During those two days one learns to adjust the thread tension, how to start and stop (!), and by making a couple of sail bags or shopping bags, one soon learns to make the seams straight enough. I know about no other (legal) homework, which pays back better than making my own sails.

    The sail can probably still be used (good that you made the mast a little taller), but you should have a serious talk with Sebastian. He cannot be proud of that job.


    Last modified: 18 May 2018 19:49 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 13 May 2018 20:55
    Reply # 6152860 on 6141347


    You were not wrong. The luff of the first two panels is ca. 28 cm. See picture of the two from head of sail to center batten 6

    Luff Panel 3 measures to 63 cm

    The other 4 panels 112 cm 

    According to you drawings the numbers should be 14, 56 and 107 cm. 

    Quite a difference. There is not much drift left between halliard blocks with the slingpoint already moved to dead center of the yard.  The boom just 50 cm over the fore deck at the mast position... LAP is a generous 890 cm.


    1 file
    Last modified: 13 May 2018 20:59 | Anonymous member
  • 11 May 2018 09:40
    Reply # 6148776 on 6141347

    Frederick,  that black sail looks a real beauty!

  • 11 May 2018 08:45
    Reply # 6148735 on 6141347
    Anonymous member (Administrator)


    I may well be wrong, but the luff of the two top panels appears to be longer than the 139mm I found when I checked the sailplan. This makes the yard angle look flatter than on Ingeborg's sail. Not a big deal, performancewise  -   it may well be better than the original.

    Again, as said; the photo may play tricks with me...


    Last modified: 11 May 2018 09:09 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 11 May 2018 05:29
    Reply # 6148558 on 6141347

    The THP on yard and batten 2. Makes a lot of sense. 

    In what way do you think the top panels are different from  your plans Arne? If the top panels have been altered then it’s not been something I’ve talked about with Sebastian. 

    Went trough my correspondence with Sebastian and found a mail where he states that he will use your drawings....

    Last modified: 11 May 2018 05:39 | Anonymous member
  • 10 May 2018 21:51
    Reply # 6148044 on 6141347
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Yes, the wind will sort things out  -  or make it look worse. With wind in the sail, you can tune away the diagonal creases with the THP.  Try sailing both with the sail squared out, and fully close-hauled after each adjustment. One may have to compromise a little. That's why I keep the Hong Kong parrels  -  to act as light trimming lines (most of them are slack when the THP and YHP are set up correctly). If all panels set fine except one,  try a HK parrel on that panel, alone.


    PS: When zooming in on your photo, it appears that you have attached the luff hauling parrel too low in the sail. To become a THP (throat hauling p.), it should be terminated at the throat (fore) end of the yard, with the single block tied to the tip of batten 2, from top, just as on Ingeborg's sail.

    PPS: It appears that the top panels, at least, have been altered, compared to the sailplan I sent you. Was that intentional?

    Last modified: 11 May 2018 09:07 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
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