The Metamorphosis of Jasmine a 32ft Samson C-Mist - Updated 03.07.2023 - Attaching sheet and sheetlets, Mast Boot and Solar Arch. The Rig Part 2

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  • 08 Jul 2023 07:33
    Reply # 13225202 on 10420926

    Patrick, I was thinking that in your case, you can try to remove the top panel with the batten underneath,  and fasten the next panel to the yard. The yard will be less inclined and I think that the yard hauling parrel can be more efficient like that. At least it's a non  destructive test, and if it's successful to remove the wrinkles you can order a new botttom panel to your sailmaker.



  • 04 Jul 2023 15:54
    Reply # 13223386 on 10420926

    Hans-Erik and Arne, thank you both for your fast and constructive replies.
    I must say I already agreed on your opinions, even before reading them. My intention was to try HK parrels, because it is a very simple modification that is fast, cheap and non-destructive.
    As you say, Arne, if it works, it is success. If it don't work, it's experience. As for bending battens, I am quite confident that the battens on Paradox are strong enough.
    Hans-Erik, tying anything around my yards or battens is not an easy thing to achieve. The sail panels on Paradox are all independent (separated pieces of cloth), and they are equipped with bolt ropes on their upper and lower edges, these bolt ropes being slid into rails affixed on top and bottom of each batten, and on the bottom side of the yard. So the battens join the panels together to form the complete sail. hope I am clear in my explanation.
    So to tie for example a strap around the yard, I would need to cut away a piece of the rail, after having removed the panel, then slide the panel back in the rail, hoping the piece of rail I remove will not affect the strength of the whole assembly.
    But as always, other solutions can be found.
    I'll keep you informed!
    Fair winds to you,

  • 04 Jul 2023 12:40
    Reply # 13223342 on 10420926

    I see that Arne, in his usual helpful way, has also replied and linked to his excellent article on the subject.
    You beat me to it Arne.
    I should have just linked your excellent essay instead of trying to write my own.

    Last modified: 04 Jul 2023 12:41 | Anonymous member
  • 04 Jul 2023 12:24
    Reply # 13223338 on 10420926

    Hi Patrick,

    First off thank you for your kind words and my belated congratulations on your marriage to Paradox.

    As to those pesky diagonal creases on your Paradox's sails:
    It is my understanding that they are caused by the downward force of the sheets/sheetlets at the leech batten end fighting the upward pull at the luff end of the battens above in each panel.
    The Hong Kong(HK) parrels, set at around a 45° angle from the luff batten ends to roughly the aft attachment point of the batten parrel on the batten below, counter that downward force at the sheets/sheetlets.
    They are standing lines once set correctly and need not be of super strong (expensive) rope material as it's not a train smash if they should snap/break.
    I was pleased to see that they do indeed take out the camber robbing big diagonal creases. It was in Arne Kverneland's writings that I learned of their value in barrel cut panels. (I have not yet been out sailing and imagine some length tweaking will follow after doing so.)
    Get some inexpensive low 6-8mm diameter line and give them a try on Paradox.

    As to the idea of moving the halyard attachment point further back:
    I intend to attach my yard hauling parrel(YHP) aft of the halyard attachment point as Jasmine's mast is of a length that there is almost no drift when the sail is fully hoisted.
    The YHP is redundant when the sail is fully hoisted but, as I am sure you know, is vital in keeping the sail well peaked up as soon as one drops a panel or more. Having the YHP attached aft of the halyard attachment point is something that Arne too has done on his Ingeborg.
    Initially you could use an all stainless hose clamp (it will eventually rust/discolour but is easily replaced) to make a temporary or even a permanent attachment for the YHP. They are not expensive and will clamp on 2 loops of strong line (dyneema would be optimum and not much is needed) into which the bitter end can be tied and a shackle will fix the YHP block.

    I have attached a couple of pictures of such a clamp attachment system that Arne used for the aft end of his batten parrels and HK parrels.
    Ingeborg's YHP is the green line in the picture of the yard attachments.
    I went with his idea of wrapping some sportsman's tape around under the hose clamps on the aluminium battens and will do so on Jasmine's single 80mm diameter aluminium tube yard to help with anti-slip and create a barrier between the stainless steel and the aluminium.

    I hope my thoughts help you and as always, fair winds fellow junkie. :-)

    2 files
    Last modified: 04 Jul 2023 12:27 | Anonymous member
  • 04 Jul 2023 11:22
    Reply # 13223325 on 10420926
    Anonymous member (Administrator)


    instead of talking about those HK-parrels, I suggest you just trial fit them to one of your sails. You just attach them to the same points as the batten parrels. As you hoist the sail on a calm day, you adjust the tension in these parrels, one by one, until each panel hangs without those creases.

    This may happen when you go sailing with HK-parrels:

    • ·         They work
    • ·         They don’t work
    • ·         They work, but tend to bend the battens upwards.

    I’ve found the best way is to use HK-parrels, and then offload them by giving a tug on the throat hauling parrel (THP).


    PS: This may be useful.

  • 04 Jul 2023 11:00
    Reply # 13223317 on 10420926

    Hans Erik, too bad you live in such a faraway country. Seing your Jasmine among our european junks would be such a honour for us!
    You certainly can be proud of your boat. It looks really great!
    During the Semaine du Golfe event in Morbihan, other junkists kindly made fun of me because the cambered panels on Paradox were showing those big disgraceful diagonal creases. I talked about fitting honk-kong parrels, but didn't meet a lot of enthusiasm.
    Instead it was suggested I should try and move the halyard lifting point further aft of the yard. Kind of difficult for me since the yards are aluminium and that would mean making holes, fitting strong attachments for the halyard, yet I'm not totally sure it would solve the problem.
    Are you satisfied with your Honk-Kong parrels? Any pros and cons? It would be intersting to have your feedback.
    Meanwhile, congratulation for Jasmine, and good luck for the remaining jobs!
    Patrick (ex China Blue, now Paradox of Plym)

    1 file
  • 03 Jul 2023 18:16
    Reply # 13223076 on 10420926


    It seems it has been 18 months since my last update here.

    It has been a frustrating time of little real progress on Jasmine. 

    That said I did manage to make some good progress on Jasmine this past month.

    Taking advantage of the calm (no or little wind) on some mornings I got almost all the "string" on the sail attached.

    On the first such morning it was the upper sheet and sheetlets.

    Next came the lower sheet and sheetlets a couple of days later.

    A week then passed before I was able to install the Hong Kong parrels and the tackline (similar to a Bermudan rig kicking strap).

    Still to do next visit are the yard hauling parrel and upper luff hauling parrel.

    During that week I attended a course and successfully obtained my VHF radio operator certification.

    I was also able to get the safety officer to finally sign off on the hull inspection as the engine now finally starts every time and when I want it to.

    The problem was never the engine itself but the electrical wiring aspects of it.

    Thanks to my friend Michelle for the diagnosis and solution.

    Also during the gaps between calm mornings I attended to making a proper mast boot. (The cover for the mast wedges at the mast collar tube.)

    I used an old tractor inner tube wrapped around the mast inverted and then rolled down over the elongated all stainless steel hose clamp that squeezes it nice and tight against the mast.

    It will get a drawstring along the bottom under the rounded bar welded around the top of the galvanized steel mast collar tube.

    Work has progressed on the solar arch too.

    I am back at the ranch now and I hope Michelle can arrange to come down soon and get all the other already purchased bits and bobs of the new house electrical system installed and working.

    I decided to spring for two 100A Lithium batteries, controllers, cabling and a beefed up alternator.

    The 3000W Victron true sinewave multiplus thingamabob will (I am told) run it all.

    We are aiming for later this month. 

    Then Jasmine can get her seaworthy certificate and we can go sailing at long last.

    11 files
  • 11 Jan 2022 01:55
    Reply # 12253615 on 10420926

    Jasmine's sail has been assembled and is now ready for final line and sheet rigging in February.

    The story of progress is in this album.

    Until then work continues on the pilot house and interior modifications.

  • 18 Dec 2021 16:59
    Reply # 12201239 on 10420926

    Work on Jasmine's metamorphosis has continued apace and my posts in that regard have been somewhat absent.

    My apologies.

    This new album tells the story of the extension and refurbishment of the mast.  

  • 07 Sep 2021 19:02
    Reply # 11001035 on 10764323
    Deleted user
    Anonymous wrote:

    I have added the fourth and final album about making the sail which is now finished.

    You can find it here.

    Hi hans - Erik

    That looks like a task and a half making those sails ,well done to you and your helpers


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