Like the simple heavy duty DIY bracket, but how will reverse work? 
i find a steerable outboard very useful. That said, steering it and looking where you are going can be a bit fraught if single handed!  The best are the small outboards that turn through 360, amazing when reversing. 

Anonymous wrote:

I’ll remove the tiller and gearshift from the outboard and use a remote control box. 

Remote controls are best for sure. I prefer controls that have shift and speed  (throttle has less meaning any more) as separate levers but that is likely because I tend to use older motors with a real carb in them. 2 strokes like to start with a higher speed anyway and besides that tend to stall out if run at idle for any length of time. The 4stroke I have, has an accelerator pump which allows starting without choke even when cold if I can pump the throttle a bit. Any trouble like a failing spark plug, failing spark sensors, etc. can show up just when you need the motor to keep running and a higher rpm idle can mean keeping the motor running long enough to get from idle to in gear and home (once the motor warms up many troubles go away till shut down). Single lever controls are fine for new motors... until they grow old. I like the feel of dual controls as well. I don't like the huge dead space in the middle. Electric motor controls are a whole different deal of course, out of my price range for now (not the controls but the motor).

Will you be using the outboard for steering as well? or just use your rudder? I have wished for a motor I can turn sideways at dock when the boat ahead and behind are rather close but am beginning to think I will just move the boat by hand as I did last time we went out when we were on the inside of a raft. A linkage from rudder to outboard might be a challenge.

I like the ladder beside the outboard. The work is progressing well.

Frederik wrote:

(12 mm okume ply +14 mm lycell foam) and glassed.

Thank you for posting an update, the aft deck and tiller look wonderful.

Will you please tell me if the okume ply and lycell foam are specificed in the plans from Chris Morejohn? I thought, it seems mistakenly, that his designs were all fir, fir plywood and fiberglass. I briefly looked for okume (okoume?) marine plywood and was shocked by the cost. Lycell foam is also not an inexpensive material.

Very interesting, Frederik:
How are the inside cavities (and cabin) going to be treated, just with preservative oils of some sort? I guess I would recommend installing a little air dehumidifier which can be run from time to time (and with small fans transporting dry air  to all rooms). That keeps mildew, rot and even rust away. Some of the metal things in the cabin of my Ingeborg are just (electro-) galvanized, but there are still no sign of rust after six years. I generally keep the RH below 70%.

Keep up the good work,
Arne